Re: [SilverStreak] (Fwd) Help re Removing toilet platform

["Bev Harris" <zia@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Thanks for the info!

Bev

On 1 May 2008 at 11:21, thetansedan@aol.com wrote:

To:             	sslist@tompatterson.com
Subject:        	Re: [SilverStreak] (Fwd) Help re Removing toilet platform
Date sent:      	Thu, 01 May 2008 11:21:34 -0400
From:           	thetansedan@aol.com
Send reply to:  	sslist@tompatterson.com

> The rot (constantly wet wood over a long period of time that caused it to go
> quite soft) was fairly extensive; thus the dissasembly. B That is the key
> word, as it was easy to re-assemble afterwards. The toilet "platform" (on this
> model just another sheet of plywood on which to mount the toilet flange) had
> gone bad. B I replaced the toilet, supply line (added a shutoff), the flange
> and used new fasteners to secure this. The carpeting used by the PO (previous
> owner) covered up and exacerbated this problem over some time. It should be
> said, in fairness, that the trailer was in overall excellent condition so this
> is not meant to be a complaint on his actions/inactions.
> 
> 
> 
> The anti-freeze helped to displace the moisture, and the heat gun got the wood
> sufficiently dried to be able to test for softness. B Once the wet was gone so
> was the threat of softened wood. B I have, but elected not to use a two-part
> epoxy as the areas were small and seemed fine afterwards. B We installed a
> cork tile floor afterwards.
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bev Harris <zia@ix.netcom.com>
> To: sslist@tompatterson.com
> Sent: Wed, 30 Apr 2008 10:19 pm
> Subject: Re: [SilverStreak] (Fwd) Help re Removing toilet platform
> 
> 
> Wow!  I'm truly impressed (and pray that I do not need to do all that!
> Could you explain what the antifreeze and heat lamp do?  Thanks for the help.
> 
> Bev
> 
> 
> On 30 Apr 2008 at 10:39, thetansedan@aol.com wrote:
> 
> To:                 sslist@tompatterson.com
> Subject:            Re: [SilverStreak] (Fwd) Help re Removing toilet platform
> Date sent:          Wed, 30 Apr 2008 10:39:24 -0400
> From:               thetansedan@aol.com
> Send reply to:      sslist@tompatterson.com
> 
> > My '83 had the wood rotted from a leaking toilet sprayer. B There is not a
> > platform, per se, but a doubling of wood that the toilet mount is on. B We
> > removed the sink cabinetry and had to cut out the wood from the
> toilet/closet
> > face to and thru the trunk. B New toilet, new mount, new water supply
> cut-off
> > onto the new floor and re-assembly of cabinetry.
> >
> >
> >
> > Trailer is a 1983B Silver StreakB Model 3411. We bought this recently from
> a
> > very nice couple outside Montgomery, Texas and have hauled it back to
> Dallas
> > (with a trip back and forth to Corpus Christi). The carpeting was removed
> and
> > leaks were searched out. The awning came loose in a windstorm several years
> > back according to PO, and the starboard bow has several tears around window
> > which have been "fixed" (hopefully). The floor in that corner was wet after
> > weeks of rain, but dried up nicely. Used antifreeze and a heat lamp to get
> it
> > back to normal. Plan to swab some penetrating epoxy over it. (WEST MARINE).
> > The same around doorway where old weathergasket leaked.
> >
> > The subfloor is 19/32" exterior-grade plywood throughout (a reference on
> the
> > tommpatterson site (brochure) was that early 1970's trailers had 5/8
> > subflooring). The worst area was the bathroom where a leaking toilet "water
> > saver" (sprayer) had rotted out the wood in conjunction with what appeared
> to
> > be plumbing stack leakage (All three stacks have been replaced with metal
> > pieces fromB Vintage Trailer Supply - Vintage travel trailer parts and
> > supplies!B andB Acryl-R). Mold extends slightly up under wardrobe on port
> side
> > (near to water heater), but we'll undercut it and slide some new wood in
> > place. As the port side bathroom wardrobe contains the water heater (on the
> > subfloor, underneath a false bottom) and the electrical distribution panel
> > (upper portion, at wall to bedroom), it was determined that this was more
> > trouble than it was worth at present. I'll use more bleach and then more
> > antifreeze on it if it appears to be growing.
> >
> > A single piece of 5/8" CDX was purchased and will provide enough for the
> > rearmost 4x8 replacement (including toilet stand). If I have time, a coat
> > ofB Sherwin-WilliamsB A-100 exterior-grade latex primer will be brushed on.
> >
> > I went out today to purchase supplies and bought fasteners in a close or
> > barely larger size to replace those removed. (Few required cutoff; most of
> > those near to toilet):
> >
> > 100 pcs each (for future jobs); boxes:
> > 8x5/8 Combo Pan Sheet Metal Screws (Zinc)
> > 8x1 Slotted Hex Washer Sheet Metal Screws (Zinc)
> > 12x1 Phillips Flat Sheet Metal Screws (Zinc)
> > 10x1-1/4 Combo Sheet Metal Screws (Zinc)
> >
> > (Stll need the big floor screws, almost lag screw type but self-drilling)
> >
> > The work includes removing the toilet, sink/vanity, the wall separating the
> > trunk from the bath (many of the countertop screws are accessed from trunk)
> > and to access the floor attaching points of the 4x8 panel. We cut the
> vertical
> > trunk panel in order to remove it (there was a seam we followed), and that
> was
> > the only difficulty (for re-assembly).
> >
> > The new floor has been cut (three pieces) as a single piece would be just
> too
> > much to try to maneuver into place during reassembly. (The third piece is
> the
> > toilet flange). We'll "sister" onto one of the frame riggers to get the
> floor
> > installed.
> >
> > There is no significant rust on the metal frame as exposed, and the
> insulation
> > (removed) wasn't bad. In fact, besides the wood, nothing looked as if it
> had
> > suffered years of water attack.
> >
> > This work included several men on a crew and labor total was around six
> hours.
> > The work went easily until it was time for the painstaking removal of small
> > rotted pieces. Had to use a chisel and pliers to get wood from the
> interface
> > of skin/frame around perimeter.
> >
> > The one spot that was difficult was the corner nearest the window of the
> > countertop/sink/shower enclosure. This will necessitate a bit of time to
> > properly replace.
> >
> > Is there a "C" channel as the A/S folks have? No, not per se as the floor
> is
> > not a structural member in the same manner. However, the exterior skin and
> > interior skin (separated by 4" of insulted space) are underlain by a metal
> > skin and the wood subfloor is very tightly held in place, as well as
> screwed
> > in from underneath. (A more experienced S/S owner can chime in here to
> correct
> > me). This is based on what I can see and feel. A more extensive floor
> > replacement would benefit by removal of the belly skins (on an S/S there is
> 4"
> > of insulated/skin and 4" empty air space to belly skin underneath the
> > subfloor). I can see no reason not to simply take the time to remove from
> the
> > interior space as we are doing, removing the lower skins would be
> prohibitive,
> > IMO.
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Bev Harris <zia@ix.netcom.com>
> > To: sslist@tompatterson.com
> > Sent: Tue, 29 Apr 2008 10:47 pm
> > Subject: [SilverStreak] (Fwd) Help re Removing toilet platform
> >
> >
> > Our new-to-us '64' SS 20' Sabre has a leak under the toilet platform.  I've
> > been trying to figure out how to get down into it  without destroying it.
> Can
> > anyone offer any help?
> >
> > I'll be working on it again this weekend ...
> >
> > Bev
> > 1964 SS 20' Sabre
> >
> > P.S. I sent a msg a couple days ago that didn't get posted.  Maybe it was
> too
> > long?
> >