Re: [SilverStreak] (Fwd) Help re Removing toilet platform

["Bev Harris" <zia@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Wow!  I'm truly impressed (and pray that I do not need to do all that!  
Could you explain what the antifreeze and heat lamp do?  Thanks for the help.

Bev


On 30 Apr 2008 at 10:39, thetansedan@aol.com wrote:

To:             	sslist@tompatterson.com
Subject:        	Re: [SilverStreak] (Fwd) Help re Removing toilet platform
Date sent:      	Wed, 30 Apr 2008 10:39:24 -0400
From:           	thetansedan@aol.com
Send reply to:  	sslist@tompatterson.com

> My '83 had the wood rotted from a leaking toilet sprayer. B There is not a
> platform, per se, but a doubling of wood that the toilet mount is on. B We
> removed the sink cabinetry and had to cut out the wood from the toilet/closet
> face to and thru the trunk. B New toilet, new mount, new water supply cut-off
> onto the new floor and re-assembly of cabinetry.
> 
> 
> 
> Trailer is a 1983B Silver StreakB Model 3411. We bought this recently from a
> very nice couple outside Montgomery, Texas and have hauled it back to Dallas
> (with a trip back and forth to Corpus Christi). The carpeting was removed and
> leaks were searched out. The awning came loose in a windstorm several years
> back according to PO, and the starboard bow has several tears around window
> which have been "fixed" (hopefully). The floor in that corner was wet after
> weeks of rain, but dried up nicely. Used antifreeze and a heat lamp to get it
> back to normal. Plan to swab some penetrating epoxy over it. (WEST MARINE).
> The same around doorway where old weathergasket leaked.
> 
> The subfloor is 19/32" exterior-grade plywood throughout (a reference on the
> tommpatterson site (brochure) was that early 1970's trailers had 5/8
> subflooring). The worst area was the bathroom where a leaking toilet "water
> saver" (sprayer) had rotted out the wood in conjunction with what appeared to
> be plumbing stack leakage (All three stacks have been replaced with metal
> pieces fromB Vintage Trailer Supply - Vintage travel trailer parts and
> supplies!B andB Acryl-R). Mold extends slightly up under wardrobe on port side
> (near to water heater), but we'll undercut it and slide some new wood in
> place. As the port side bathroom wardrobe contains the water heater (on the
> subfloor, underneath a false bottom) and the electrical distribution panel
> (upper portion, at wall to bedroom), it was determined that this was more
> trouble than it was worth at present. I'll use more bleach and then more
> antifreeze on it if it appears to be growing.
> 
> A single piece of 5/8" CDX was purchased and will provide enough for the
> rearmost 4x8 replacement (including toilet stand). If I have time, a coat
> ofB Sherwin-WilliamsB A-100 exterior-grade latex primer will be brushed on.
> 
> I went out today to purchase supplies and bought fasteners in a close or
> barely larger size to replace those removed. (Few required cutoff; most of
> those near to toilet):
> 
> 100 pcs each (for future jobs); boxes:
> 8x5/8 Combo Pan Sheet Metal Screws (Zinc)
> 8x1 Slotted Hex Washer Sheet Metal Screws (Zinc)
> 12x1 Phillips Flat Sheet Metal Screws (Zinc)
> 10x1-1/4 Combo Sheet Metal Screws (Zinc)
> 
> (Stll need the big floor screws, almost lag screw type but self-drilling)
> 
> The work includes removing the toilet, sink/vanity, the wall separating the
> trunk from the bath (many of the countertop screws are accessed from trunk)
> and to access the floor attaching points of the 4x8 panel. We cut the vertical
> trunk panel in order to remove it (there was a seam we followed), and that was
> the only difficulty (for re-assembly).
> 
> The new floor has been cut (three pieces) as a single piece would be just too
> much to try to maneuver into place during reassembly. (The third piece is the
> toilet flange). We'll "sister" onto one of the frame riggers to get the floor
> installed.
> 
> There is no significant rust on the metal frame as exposed, and the insulation
> (removed) wasn't bad. In fact, besides the wood, nothing looked as if it had
> suffered years of water attack.
> 
> This work included several men on a crew and labor total was around six hours.
> The work went easily until it was time for the painstaking removal of small
> rotted pieces. Had to use a chisel and pliers to get wood from the interface
> of skin/frame around perimeter.
> 
> The one spot that was difficult was the corner nearest the window of the
> countertop/sink/shower enclosure. This will necessitate a bit of time to
> properly replace.
> 
> Is there a "C" channel as the A/S folks have? No, not per se as the floor is
> not a structural member in the same manner. However, the exterior skin and
> interior skin (separated by 4" of insulted space) are underlain by a metal
> skin and the wood subfloor is very tightly held in place, as well as screwed
> in from underneath. (A more experienced S/S owner can chime in here to correct
> me). This is based on what I can see and feel. A more extensive floor
> replacement would benefit by removal of the belly skins (on an S/S there is 4"
> of insulated/skin and 4" empty air space to belly skin underneath the
> subfloor). I can see no reason not to simply take the time to remove from the
> interior space as we are doing, removing the lower skins would be prohibitive,
> IMO.
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bev Harris <zia@ix.netcom.com>
> To: sslist@tompatterson.com
> Sent: Tue, 29 Apr 2008 10:47 pm
> Subject: [SilverStreak] (Fwd) Help re Removing toilet platform
> 
> 
> Our new-to-us '64' SS 20' Sabre has a leak under the toilet platform.  I've
> been trying to figure out how to get down into it  without destroying it.  Can
> anyone offer any help?
> 
> I'll be working on it again this weekend ...
> 
> Bev
> 1964 SS 20' Sabre
> 
> P.S. I sent a msg a couple days ago that didn't get posted.  Maybe it was too
> long?
>