Re: [SilverStreak] (Fwd) Help re Removing toilet platform

[<thetansedan@xxxxxxx>]

The rot (constantly wet wood over a long period of time that caused it to go
quite soft) was fairly extensive; thus the dissasembly. B That is the key
word, as it was easy to re-assemble afterwards. The toilet "platform" (on this
model just another sheet of plywood on which to mount the toilet flange) had
gone bad. B I replaced the toilet, supply line (added a shutoff), the flange
and used new fasteners to secure this. The carpeting used by the PO (previous
owner) covered up and exacerbated this problem over some time. It should be
said, in fairness, that the trailer was in overall excellent condition so this
is not meant to be a complaint on his actions/inactions.


The anti-freeze helped to displace the moisture, and the heat gun got the wood
sufficiently dried to be able to test for softness. B Once the wet was gone so
was the threat of softened wood. B I have, but elected not to use a two-part
epoxy as the areas were small and seemed fine afterwards. B We installed a
cork tile floor afterwards.


-----Original Message-----
From: Bev Harris <zia@ix.netcom.com>
To: sslist@tompatterson.com
Sent: Wed, 30 Apr 2008 10:19 pm
Subject: Re: [SilverStreak] (Fwd) Help re Removing toilet platform


Wow!  I'm truly impressed (and pray that I do not need to do all that!
Could you explain what the antifreeze and heat lamp do?  Thanks for the help.

Bev


On 30 Apr 2008 at 10:39, thetansedan@aol.com wrote:

To:                 sslist@tompatterson.com
Subject:            Re: [SilverStreak] (Fwd) Help re Removing toilet platform
Date sent:          Wed, 30 Apr 2008 10:39:24 -0400
From:               thetansedan@aol.com
Send reply to:      sslist@tompatterson.com

> My '83 had the wood rotted from a leaking toilet sprayer. B There is not a
> platform, per se, but a doubling of wood that the toilet mount is on. B We
> removed the sink cabinetry and had to cut out the wood from the
toilet/closet
> face to and thru the trunk. B New toilet, new mount, new water supply
cut-off
> onto the new floor and re-assembly of cabinetry.
>
>
>
> Trailer is a 1983B Silver StreakB Model 3411. We bought this recently from
a
> very nice couple outside Montgomery, Texas and have hauled it back to
Dallas
> (with a trip back and forth to Corpus Christi). The carpeting was removed
and
> leaks were searched out. The awning came loose in a windstorm several years
> back according to PO, and the starboard bow has several tears around window
> which have been "fixed" (hopefully). The floor in that corner was wet after
> weeks of rain, but dried up nicely. Used antifreeze and a heat lamp to get
it
> back to normal. Plan to swab some penetrating epoxy over it. (WEST MARINE).
> The same around doorway where old weathergasket leaked.
>
> The subfloor is 19/32" exterior-grade plywood throughout (a reference on
the
> tommpatterson site (brochure) was that early 1970's trailers had 5/8
> subflooring). The worst area was the bathroom where a leaking toilet "water
> saver" (sprayer) had rotted out the wood in conjunction with what appeared
to
> be plumbing stack leakage (All three stacks have been replaced with metal
> pieces fromB Vintage Trailer Supply - Vintage travel trailer parts and
> supplies!B andB Acryl-R). Mold extends slightly up under wardrobe on port
side
> (near to water heater), but we'll undercut it and slide some new wood in
> place. As the port side bathroom wardrobe contains the water heater (on the
> subfloor, underneath a false bottom) and the electrical distribution panel
> (upper portion, at wall to bedroom), it was determined that this was more
> trouble than it was worth at present. I'll use more bleach and then more
> antifreeze on it if it appears to be growing.
>
> A single piece of 5/8" CDX was purchased and will provide enough for the
> rearmost 4x8 replacement (including toilet stand). If I have time, a coat
> ofB Sherwin-WilliamsB A-100 exterior-grade latex primer will be brushed on.
>
> I went out today to purchase supplies and bought fasteners in a close or
> barely larger size to replace those removed. (Few required cutoff; most of
> those near to toilet):
>
> 100 pcs each (for future jobs); boxes:
> 8x5/8 Combo Pan Sheet Metal Screws (Zinc)
> 8x1 Slotted Hex Washer Sheet Metal Screws (Zinc)
> 12x1 Phillips Flat Sheet Metal Screws (Zinc)
> 10x1-1/4 Combo Sheet Metal Screws (Zinc)
>
> (Stll need the big floor screws, almost lag screw type but self-drilling)
>
> The work includes removing the toilet, sink/vanity, the wall separating the
> trunk from the bath (many of the countertop screws are accessed from trunk)
> and to access the floor attaching points of the 4x8 panel. We cut the
vertical
> trunk panel in order to remove it (there was a seam we followed), and that
was
> the only difficulty (for re-assembly).
>
> The new floor has been cut (three pieces) as a single piece would be just
too
> much to try to maneuver into place during reassembly. (The third piece is
the
> toilet flange). We'll "sister" onto one of the frame riggers to get the
floor
> installed.
>
> There is no significant rust on the metal frame as exposed, and the
insulation
> (removed) wasn't bad. In fact, besides the wood, nothing looked as if it
had
> suffered years of water attack.
>
> This work included several men on a crew and labor total was around six
hours.
> The work went easily until it was time for the painstaking removal of small
> rotted pieces. Had to use a chisel and pliers to get wood from the
interface
> of skin/frame around perimeter.
>
> The one spot that was difficult was the corner nearest the window of the
> countertop/sink/shower enclosure. This will necessitate a bit of time to
> properly replace.
>
> Is there a "C" channel as the A/S folks have? No, not per se as the floor
is
> not a structural member in the same manner. However, the exterior skin and
> interior skin (separated by 4" of insulted space) are underlain by a metal
> skin and the wood subfloor is very tightly held in place, as well as
screwed
> in from underneath. (A more experienced S/S owner can chime in here to
correct
> me). This is based on what I can see and feel. A more extensive floor
> replacement would benefit by removal of the belly skins (on an S/S there is
4"
> of insulated/skin and 4" empty air space to belly skin underneath the
> subfloor). I can see no reason not to simply take the time to remove from
the
> interior space as we are doing, removing the lower skins would be
prohibitive,
> IMO.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bev Harris <zia@ix.netcom.com>
> To: sslist@tompatterson.com
> Sent: Tue, 29 Apr 2008 10:47 pm
> Subject: [SilverStreak] (Fwd) Help re Removing toilet platform
>
>
> Our new-to-us '64' SS 20' Sabre has a leak under the toilet platform.  I've
> been trying to figure out how to get down into it  without destroying it.
Can
> anyone offer any help?
>
> I'll be working on it again this weekend ...
>
> Bev
> 1964 SS 20' Sabre
>
> P.S. I sent a msg a couple days ago that didn't get posted.  Maybe it was
too
> long?
>