[VAC] Re: Toilet flange

["Mr. Joy H. Hansen" <joytbrew@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

It's too bad that Harvey Barlow is traveling as he is working on his '66
Safari.  The metal flange that is screwed to the floor is not connected to
the plastic; however, the plastic must be removed before the metal flange
can be removed.  I had to cut the screws out because they were so badly
rusted.  I tried several things to take the plastic out and finally welded
tabs on a flat iron bar that fit into the two slots inside the plastic.
Stood on the iron bar and used a mallet to turn the plastic "counter
clockwise".  I tried other make shift pins (bolts through a bar) but nothing
else worked like the welded tool.  I think it was the sharp square edges
that hooked into the plastic.  The replacement I chose is a one piece unit.

You must have the plastic collar out before you drop the holding tank
housing or you will risk breaking out the tank threads.  I doubt that the
plastic collar is glued!

I would drop the belly pan, bumper hatch bottom, etc. to get to the holding
tank housing.  I took the banana strips and everything off to get the
housing clear.  However, if I were to do it again, I'd cut the belly pan
near the front to the skid rails.  Use an aluminum backing strip to
reinstall the belly pan at the joint.

How the holding tank housing is secured to the floor depends on the model.
In some, the housing screws directly to the floor.  My Safari has a cross
angle iron support at the front and rear of the housing.

Hopefully you won't have difficulty separating the holding tank gate valve.
The bolts in my gate were so badly rusted and swelled that I couldn't
extract them.  I had to cut the 4 bolts out and replace the entire gate
valve assembly. :(  This means that a new gate valve and gray water
connection must be installed.  You'll have to make a provision to mate the
new and old plumbing if you have to make this change.  I chose to cut the
ABS in the center of the section that angles through the floor.  I then used
a rubber coupling held in place with hose clamps (available at any hardware
store).  It worked just fine as there are minute differences in a new gate
valve that might make it impossible to mate later.  The added benefit of the
boot is that I'll be able to drop the housing and tank at a later date if I
have another problem with the tank.  Harvey calls it working smart!

When you determine how complex and time consuming a repair to the holding
tank is, you will understand why I don't recommend trying to patch a holding
tank.  Plastic welding would be OK, but any other fix must be
unquestionable.

You've most likely got many replies about this subject as the problem is
very common.  However, I'm just finishing my replacement and I had to go the
whole 9 yards except purchasing a new tank.

If  you find that the floor is rotten or water damaged across the back, you
might as well do the entire job and get it over with in one session.

                                                   '69 Safari, Joy