Re: Wiring diagram

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Posted by james on October 24, 2000 at 16:35:40:

In Reply to: Re: Wiring diagram posted by parsonjr@naxs.net on October 24, 2000 at 14:53:03:

I have all the patience in the world. The 1973 was the first year that two tanks were installed for both black and gray water. If you have a 1973, this should be the case. Otherwise, you may have had some modifications made over the years by previous owners. If the water system has not been modified, there is a round metal cap filler under the bedroom window on the back side. This is the water fill for the 30 gallon tank (if it still exists under the bed.) This is a pressurized system. The pump was originally an air pump that pressurized the tank and then gravity would force the water out when a valve was opened. If you open the small compartment door under the back side, trace the city water connection from the underside and see if hopefully a shut off valve may have been added through the years inside. This would have prevented water from having to fill the water tank by bypassing it if you wanted to use city water. This would allow the city water connection to simply supply the water faucets inside and the tank could remain empty. The tank supplies fresh water when you are boondocking without any hookups. What kind of furnace did they install? Hopefully not 110 as it sounds with that wire connection. I cannot figure out why they would have routed it to the front in a juction box. I would remove all of that and keep it as original as possible. There should be service wires in the furnace compartment fed by the 12 volt system to supply power. The furnace should be 12 volt and powered by the converter on either 110/115 or battery power when no electric is available. Keep me posted and hopefully I have answered your questions. I have also found that I have had to make a gasket for the pressurized water cap out of stock because it would not hold the pressure anymore. There is not a gasked that I have found that fits.

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