> You can check the heating element by checking continuity thru the unit. You
> have to remove all the power (12v AND 120V) from the trailer, remove the
> cover on the lower left side (looking from the back). Follow the wires
> coming from the vertical tube at the right side of the fridge (as viewed
> from the back (about 6" above gas burner) over to the circuit board behind
> the cover that you removed. Unplug the connector from the circuit board
> whose wires go over to the vertical tube on the right side. With an ohm
> meter, see of there is continuity between the two pins in the removed
> connector. If there is continuity, then the heater tube is okay, if there
> is no continuity, then the heater is shot.
Hi David,
I checked the basics. I have 110 volt to the plug-in behind the fridge and 12
volt to the connections marked 12v+ and 12v-. I pulled the cover from the circuit
board and checked the fuses. They are both un-burned. I was trying to check the
two wires you mentioned. Those are the two wires that come out of the approx. 3
inch dia. stove pipe looking tube on the right hand side.Right? They were
individual connections at the board, instead of a "plug." I need to pick up a 9v
battery for my multimeter to check continuity. I hooked it up to measure resistance
and got about 30 ohms? Although I am not sure that means anything in this case.
When I got back into the house, our new puppy had eaten some of the manual for the
meter. Looks like I need a new manual or a small digital meter that is simpler. The
one I have is analog and has too many switches and scales for me. I used it years ago
to measure resistance on the first primative VW fuel injections systems and have long
since forgotten the details on its use. Ageing is a phenominal process...for hardware,
software and me-ware.
cheers, bill b.