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RE: [VAL] Optima Batteries
Pete,
I am a battery expert. I am Huffco Forklift Service and Hauling and have to
be. The smallest electric FL battery weighs 762# and costs $750+, common FL
batteries weigh 4000# and cost $4200+. They get much bigger! These costs
make knowledge essential for minimal 20+ year life. These batteries usually
use lead plates and the automotive and other similar batteries do not. They
use a lead paste that is more dirt than lead. Find a battery that lasted
five years and I'll show you a series of events, care, use, vehicle and luck
that caused that.
There is much to say about batteries, types, usage, and chargers, but in
short, bigger-heavier is better. Simply go to Walmart, get the biggest that
can fit and you can afford. Their warranty is not prorated so enjoy it while
it lasts. Exchange them if weak before the free exchange period expires. If
you get three years, you did very good with today's cheaply made batteries.
What kills batteries is: (1) same state (non-use), (2) overcharging, (3)
loss of water, in that order. Batteries ALWAYS fail on the positive terminal
and positive plates. Battery water level always depletes on the first or
second cell at the positive end unless the battery develops a dead cell out
of that position.
A lead acid battery has no memory so you can run it dead, or charge it from
any partial state. It cannot stay in any one state for long, or it will
sulfate, or avalanche. Usage is the key. Check the water level, especially
in the summer months. Fill only when fully charged and "fish eye" using ONLY
distilled water. Off season or at least once a month, leave a light on that
won't burn it's lens, or leave your radio on for at LEAST eight hours and
more to "work" the battery. Then cut off the work use overnight WITHOUT
recharging until the next day. This lets the battery "climb" recovery on
it's own. This is very good for the battery and is called a cycle. Batteries
cannot stay in any one state for long. They cannot stay fully dead, or fully
charged and be expected to last.
Battery terminals and leads need to be shiny-clean AND GREASED liberally
BEFORE connecting and totally covered after connected to prevent corrosion
and black crust connectivity failure at the positive terminal. Yes, it is a
horrible mess, but do it once and it is done for the battery life! Remember,
grease is a hydrocarbon. Like the carbon brushes in your starter, drill,
etc., grease promotes conductivity. It does not diminish it. All new cars
use grease on all bulb bases to stop air, moisture, corrosion, and promote
conductivity. Your computer uses a white di-electric grease between the CPU
processor chip and it's heat sink to promote temperature conductivity. The
chip would not last one second without that white grease!
The best terminal cleaner is good old baking soda and water mix. Also coke
will do. Just don't get ANY in a cell or you will kill that cell. Soak leads
and terminals in a plastic cup/dish of baking soda and water for a shiny
clean result with no work! You cannot over soak it.
NEVER WORK WITH A JUST CHARGED BATTERY! Wait overnight and never create a
spark before that wait. The hydrogen gas from charging is very explosive.
Always disconnect and connect the negative lead first and last, especially
on modern computer controlled cars. Instant chip damage to the alternator
and CPU is better than 60% from voltage spike. It is a certainty on four GM
models. Some modern RV power converters use chip controllers so just get in
the negative first and last habit. Always use same connection sequence on
portable chargers and unplug before disconnection from the battery.
It is a old wives/husbands tale that setting a battery on the concrete or
ground will "suck the juice" out of it. It exits in a plastic/rubber
housing. Another piece of plastic, rubber or wood would make no difference.
What killed it was non-use or no change of state. Therefore, LOOK AT THE
DATE on the little round sticker on the battery you buy off the shelf at
Walmart. Don't buy a old battery they want to push on you. Buy a new one!
The code is simple. January equals 1 and so on. You can see all of the
batteries will have a 6 for the year. The newest battery available right now
will be a 5/6. Don't buy a 4/6. Insist and don't be talked into the old
warranty coverage argument. You have better things to do with your time that
to argue a warranty and change batteries.
Hope this helps and I apologize to all if was too wordy and long.
-Eddie- (713)694-8084 24hrs or email, EddieHuffstetter@hotmail.com