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Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V2 #343 subfloor hardener



Russ,

Assuming I'm getting the proper picture of your problem, which might be
described as a butt joint in the flooring, in 'mid air', with nothing backing
it up, yet the joint will be hidden, or way out of foot traffic pressures,
have you considered H clips?  I don't know if they're made for 3/4"
thicknesses, but roofers use them all the time between the edges of sheet
goods used for subroofing (usually 3/8" or 1/2").

If 1/2" is the largest H clip available, one might consider routing out 1/4"
in the new and old subfloor to install the H clips, especially if it's in a
no-load location.  If nothing else, it would keep them aligned, and the floor
all in one plane.

About floor tile adhesive sticking to CPES (Clear Penetrating Epoxy
Sealer)treated plywood:  though I haven't done it myself yet, the end result
of the surface of wood I HAVE treated with Dr. Rot's stuff seems like it would
be even better than wood as a glued surface.  Once cured, it's hard and shiny,
and, I think, would happily take to glue or adhesive.

Also, if you're building a black water tank which is going to be a tight
squeeze under the floor, you might want to consider leaving a little space
between it and the bottom of the flooring, to avoid the 'oil can effect' when
somebody is walking directly across it, if it's in a traffic area.  I looked
at an old Revcon motorhome which had that sound effect.  Every time I'd walk
toward the bathroom in the rear, I could hear the top of the fresh water tank
go 'thunk, click', as the top of the tank was pressed down a tiny bit, then
would pop back as I removed my weight.

It was aggravating as all get out, and I found myself unconsciously trying to
step around that 'sweet spot' every time I made the trip down the 'hall'.
That was one of the reasons I rejected that coach...it was a sublime, yet
chronic, stress producer.

Just thought I'd toss that in under the 'forewarned is forearmed' department.


Mark in Modesto