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Re: [VAL] old door handle (and paint removal, and other ruminations)



Thanks for the info on the old handle. 

It does work fine. Closes. Opens, and turns. So innards and catch are fine.

If I'm going to keep it as is, or just update the handle, I'll have a
locksmith make a key.

If replace the entire unit, then no need for that.

I still have time on that.

 Oh yes. In my initial post I mentions I have 8 months to work on it.

I want to clarify what I meant.

Like I said I've got a construction project going on. the thing is I'm not
a contractor. In fact I'm a picture framer. But I do want to be on the
jobsite as much as possible to keep a handle on what's going on.  Since I'm
going to be spending time there, I'd like to make it time well spent.

I can also use the some of the jobsite resources (like scaffolding, or
woodworking equipment)

This way when I do bring it home to roost it is at least further along in
restoration or re-habilitation. I by no means think I can be "done" in 8
months.

It's all a matter of degrees of don-ness.

For me: if it rolls, and keeps out water I'm 85% there. The rest is just
dressing.

For my wife, the dressing is 85% and in that case, I'm only 15% of the way
to a family trip in the beast. 

Any takers for the Zolotone question? Jasco, Dads, 3M Safest stripper, and
Heat are what I've tried so far. They all work fine on the topcoats?

Also, did I actually get the year and model right? When I went to title it,
since it hadn't been registered in so long, it had, as the nice folks at
the DMV put it, "Fallen out of the system." 

They really were not happy with the fact that it had just 4 numbers in the
Serial Number, since the space allocated for it had about 25 or 30 digits.
But they made their peace with that.

Thanks for all the answers.

I've got some polishing questions, but I think that those will be better
answered at the first WBCCI meetup, so I can get an idea of what grit to
start with, and if it needs compounding or not.

Thanks much,
Marc