I would offer the following comments on either deleting the forced air or
upgrading the size to get more BTU output... Removing the forced air will
cause the possibility of getting the inside of the coach "warm enough" and
freezing the waste and fresh water tanks solid.... Upgrading the forced
air to more BTU will bring up the possibility of popping the limit switches
due to not enough air flowing... and in a small coach, constant cycling on
and off as the temp jumps up and down... I have had the experience of the
"not enough air" which caused the limit switch to trip and the furnace to
blow cold air until you get up and shut it off... You will have to then
wait 10 min. or so and turn the furnace back on ... If the limit switch
reset ( mine just hung open) the furnace will restart and the cycle repeat
again....Our trailer had an extra vent installed in the kitchen which was
the easiest location and with the extra vent, enough air flowed to keep
everything together.... Shutting the vent partially off (by accident) with
a new furnace installed caused the limit switch to open and stick... Trying
to get warranty service out of the various RV service centers is a real
PITA type problem... I wound up just paying for service and was glad I did
... The shop checked everything and reset the regulator pressure, found the
partial open vent, and got us back on the road with some special order
parts....
My very best to Junior's RV Service in Findlay, Ohio....I can only thank
them for doing a great job....
Jim