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[VAL] Re: Painting and Repairing Plastic (and woodwork)



I recently completed the same project.  I think Lexxy
gave a pretty complete summary.  Here are some
variations I had:

-I used one-part polyurethane paint that is formulated
for use above the water line.  I paid about $25 for a
quart.  The "Hatteras White" seems to be an almost
perfect match for my bathtub--which is the only part I
didn't paint.

-I applied it with a brush.  Foam brushes worked well
for me because you can toss them out when you're done,
but they don't shed bristles.  They do make little
bubbles.  But, I found that the paint leveled out
amazingly well.  There were no traces of bubbles or
brush strokes in the finished work.  In my opinion,
spraying is not necessary--but remember that this
advice is worth what you paid for it.

-The stuff will run.  You may want to consider
painting only the portions that are lying flat.  This
will take 3 passes per coat on some parts.  But, it is
sure to give a good looking result.

-The paint is pretty soft at first.  If you can stand
the wait, let the painted parts sit for a week or two.
 I put mine in the Airstream to "bake" in the daily
110 degree heat of the closed-off interior. 

I have been stripping the woodwork with a "water
soluble" stripper.  It takes a long time to evaporate,
which gives good working time but requires long waits
after stripping.  DO NOT rinse the wood with water--no
matter what the instructions suggest. I strongly
advise against sanding, because the veneer is really
thin.  I have been refinishing with Spar Urethane.  I
do recommend spraying it on--I just buy it in cans.
WOW! That black walnut looks truly amazing when it is
cleaned up!

Jon in SC
68 Overlander