Re: [SilverStreak] SS Suspension/wheels/tires

[<thetansedan@xxxxxxx>]

As to tires, the experts agree that ozone rot (aided by UV, if I remember this
correctly) means a life span of around five years. B I had some ugly Carlisles
on mine when purchased, tried some 225/75's, and finally settled on YOKOHAMA
RY-215 in 7.00x15 (or, 7R-15). B They are rated at 2,080# as I recall, and
meet the requirements set out in my manual (1983). B I painted the underside
of the wheelwell to be able to ascertain any problems of tire height. B In
several thousand miles of towing I have not see any paint wear off.

I purchased mine through DISCOUNT TIRE who ordered them through TIRE RACK. B I
had the combination of wheel and tire (my wheels are Eagle, replacements I
believe, not the WESTERN Model 26's that I think were oem), "road force
balanced" and we had to pull a few of the tires around the rim to get the best
-- lightest -- amount of weight. B The 225's were terrible, wouldn't balance
out. B I added CENTRAMATIC Wheel Balancers at this time.

I agree that 16" wheels with MICHELIN XPS might be the ticket. I haven't
checked sizing, but my tire height and section width as well as the XPS are on
the TIRE RACK site. B I wouldn't go up in "ply-rating" if I had the choice.
B See the MICHELIN website on RV tire pressures and weights, great little page
or PDF there.

I also replaced the oem shocks. B I have a substantial write-up on all this in
the VIntage Kin sub-forum on Airforums dot com.

As to the springs, are they flat when the trailer is parked level? B One
should not see any change from one end to the other (although the mounting
points on leaf springs may be at different heights). B Get underneath to look
for cracks or crazing. B True, one can remove them for inspection, but I
believe I would simply replace them if uncomfortable.

Not all leaf springs are the same. B Have a look at NATIONAL SPRING's website
to see how good ones are made; and have a look also at EATON DETROIT SPRING as
their site has some good info (I have purchased some beautifully made springs
from them for cars). B When I replace mine I will take the time to
dissassemble them, prime and paint them with Lubri-Plate paint coating
(TRACTOR SUPPLY) that adds some dry lubrication property, and gives them some
rust protection. Look for full-length Teflon interleaves if available.

NEVER ever re-use spring fastners (nuts and u-bolts) they must be new in all
instances of removal. B There are some double-headed nuts that may be of aid,
and I for one use only fine thread bolts. B This is one job I like to take my
time in torquing to spec; several runs; as I believe a lot of load is placed
on the fasteners.

The axles should be inspected for straightness and against bowing, as well as
an inspection of the welds; you may need to get dirty to really find out how
they are.

Goes without saying that the leaf spring mounting points are highly
important.

Be sure to have an alignment done (I use a big truck service center for this
sort of work; my eyes are pretty good, but some well-experienced ones are even
better).

Leaf springs can last a long time, but, twenty or more years I think is time
to find out the best source.

I'm stymied at this point on how to remedy the shock absorber problem detailed
on the other site; will be working on it this year.

Good luck


-----Original Message-----
From: JONATHAN TOUPS <JONATHANT@CSPHOUSTON.COM>
To: sslist-digest@tompatterson.com; sslist-admin@tompatterson.com
Sent: Sun, 6 Apr 2008 1:37 am
Subject: [SilverStreak] SS Suspension/wheels/tires

I have heard several times about leaf springs breaking while going down the
road, is it the spring pack/clamp coming apart, an eyelet breaking off, an
equalizer breaking, or a bolt/nut coming off? What is actually happening
when it is has been said that the leaf spring "breaks"?

The springs on my '78 30' SS are original, I have replaced all of the
hardware and bushings, but now I am wondering if I should have replaced the
leaf springs, axle clamps, and retainer plates as well? In the case of new
vs. old everyone reading this would agree that they just don't make things
like they use to (hence the reason we are  all so fond of our SS trailers),
that being said, if I have not had a spring break, nor ever seen one fail on
any trailer, I  cannot see anything that looks wrong with them, am I
tempting fate by replacing the original springs with new springs of
potentially lesser quality than the originals? What about adding air bags to
act as helpers in between the axle and frame, with the old leaf springs?
Good idea or bad idea on a trailer? They sure work great on the truck axle
with only 10-15 PSI. Is better to go with 2500 or 3000 lb springs instead of
the normal 2000?

On to wheels and tires, I have the original Western cast aluminum wheels,
which are 15",and have 10 yr old Goodyear Marathon tires on them, I am
having a real hard time deciding if I should go to 16" aluminum wheels as to
broaden the selection of quality (Non overseas made) trailer tires in maybe
a E load range instead of D for extra security. I have been told so many
different things about using Light Truck tires for trailer service; one
person says no way, another says only those designated as commercial service
are ok to use, another says no problem as long as the load range is ok. I am
trying to get back closer to the original size  instead of the shorter than
stock 225-75-15 D's I have currently, they are just to short and always look
underinflated even though I always keep them @ the max rating of 65 PSI.

Most of the SS's I have seen have black steel wheels, does everyone know
something about the Western aluminum wheels that I do not? Are they prone to
have problems? Anyone know of the recommended lug torque for the Western
wheels?

I am hoping to learn from everyone's past experiences, and not have any
memorable on highway adventures pertaining to any of the above topics.

Thanks in advance for the advice!