RE: [SilverStreak] SS Suspension/wheels/tires

["Earl Custom" <bigearlscustom@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Hello,
This is a great thread.  I picked up a set of replacement springs for my
61Jet, the originals were Hadco, who is still in business in Corona, Ca.
All they needed was the center to center hole measurement and the # of leaves.
I haven't put them on yet, but the idea of pulling them apart and coating w/
lubri plate is a great idea.  The teflon interleaves sound like a great idea
as well.  The Hadco replacements are now made in Canada and cost just under
$30  each.
Happy Trails
AJ


> To: sslist@tompatterson.com
> Subject: Re: [SilverStreak] SS Suspension/wheels/tires
> Date: Sun, 6 Apr 2008 22:29:38 -0400
> From: thetansedan@aol.com
>
> As to tires, the experts agree that ozone rot (aided by UV, if I remember this
> correctly) means a life span of around five years. B I had some ugly Carlisles
> on mine when purchased, tried some 225/75's, and finally settled on YOKOHAMA
> RY-215 in 7.00x15 (or, 7R-15). B They are rated at 2,080# as I recall, and
> meet the requirements set out in my manual (1983). B I painted the underside
> of the wheelwell to be able to ascertain any problems of tire height. B In
> several thousand miles of towing I have not see any paint wear off.
>
> I purchased mine through DISCOUNT TIRE who ordered them through TIRE RACK. B I
> had the combination of wheel and tire (my wheels are Eagle, replacements I
> believe, not the WESTERN Model 26's that I think were oem), "road force
> balanced" and we had to pull a few of the tires around the rim to get the best
> -- lightest -- amount of weight. B The 225's were terrible, wouldn't balance
> out. B I added CENTRAMATIC Wheel Balancers at this time.
>
> I agree that 16" wheels with MICHELIN XPS might be the ticket. I haven't
> checked sizing, but my tire height and section width as well as the XPS are on
> the TIRE RACK site. B I wouldn't go up in "ply-rating" if I had the choice.
> B See the MICHELIN website on RV tire pressures and weights, great little page
> or PDF there.
>
> I also replaced the oem shocks. B I have a substantial write-up on all this in
> the VIntage Kin sub-forum on Airforums dot com.
>
> As to the springs, are they flat when the trailer is parked level? B One
> should not see any change from one end to the other (although the mounting
> points on leaf springs may be at different heights). B Get underneath to look
> for cracks or crazing. B True, one can remove them for inspection, but I
> believe I would simply replace them if uncomfortable.
>
> Not all leaf springs are the same. B Have a look at NATIONAL SPRING's website
> to see how good ones are made; and have a look also at EATON DETROIT SPRING as
> their site has some good info (I have purchased some beautifully made springs
> from them for cars). B When I replace mine I will take the time to
> dissassemble them, prime and paint them with Lubri-Plate paint coating
> (TRACTOR SUPPLY) that adds some dry lubrication property, and gives them some
> rust protection. Look for full-length Teflon interleaves if available.
>
> NEVER ever re-use spring fastners (nuts and u-bolts) they must be new in all
> instances of removal. B There are some double-headed nuts that may be of aid,
> and I for one use only fine thread bolts. B This is one job I like to take my
> time in torquing to spec; several runs; as I believe a lot of load is placed
> on the fasteners.
>
> The axles should be inspected for straightness and against bowing, as well as
> an inspection of the welds; you may need to get dirty to really find out how
> they are.
>
> Goes without saying that the leaf spring mounting points are highly
> important.
>
> Be sure to have an alignment done (I use a big truck service center for this
> sort of work; my eyes are pretty good, but some well-experienced ones are even
> better).
>
> Leaf springs can last a long time, but, twenty or more years I think is time
> to find out the best source.
>
> I'm stymied at this point on how to remedy the shock absorber problem detailed
> on the other site; will be working on it this year.
>
> Good luck
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: JONATHAN TOUPS <JONATHANT@CSPHOUSTON.COM>
> To: sslist-digest@tompatterson.com; sslist-admin@tompatterson.com
> Sent: Sun, 6 Apr 2008 1:37 am
> Subject: [SilverStreak] SS Suspension/wheels/tires
>
> I have heard several times about leaf springs breaking while going down the
> road, is it the spring pack/clamp coming apart, an eyelet breaking off, an
> equalizer breaking, or a bolt/nut coming off? What is actually happening
> when it is has been said that the leaf spring "breaks"?
>
> The springs on my '78 30' SS are original, I have replaced all of the
> hardware and bushings, but now I am wondering if I should have replaced the
> leaf springs, axle clamps, and retainer plates as well? In the case of new
> vs. old everyone reading this would agree that they just don't make things
> like they use to (hence the reason we are  all so fond of our SS trailers),
> that being said, if I have not had a spring break, nor ever seen one fail on
> any trailer, I  cannot see anything that looks wrong with them, am I
> tempting fate by replacing the original springs with new springs of
> potentially lesser quality than the originals? What about adding air bags to
> act as helpers in between the axle and frame, with the old leaf springs?
> Good idea or bad idea on a trailer? They sure work great on the truck axle
> with only 10-15 PSI. Is better to go with 2500 or 3000 lb springs instead of
> the normal 2000?
>
> On to wheels and tires, I have the original Western cast aluminum wheels,
> which are 15",and have 10 yr old Goodyear Marathon tires on them, I am
> having a real hard time deciding if I should go to 16" aluminum wheels as to
> broaden the selection of quality (Non overseas made) trailer tires in maybe
> a E load range instead of D for extra security. I have been told so many
> different things about using Light Truck tires for trailer service; one
> person says no way, another says only those designated as commercial service
> are ok to use, another says no problem as long as the load range is ok. I am
> trying to get back closer to the original size  instead of the shorter than
> stock 225-75-15 D's I have currently, they are just to short and always look
> underinflated even though I always keep them @ the max rating of 65 PSI.
>
> Most of the SS's I have seen have black steel wheels, does everyone know
> something about the Western aluminum wheels that I do not? Are they prone to
> have problems? Anyone know of the recommended lug torque for the Western
> wheels?
>
> I am hoping to learn from everyone's past experiences, and not have any
> memorable on highway adventures pertaining to any of the above topics.
>
> Thanks in advance for the advice!
>