> On a previous truck, my dad fitted some shims along side the hitch bar
> to cut down on its rattling.
I think I will do the same. Can't hurt, and may help. Continual
hammering of the surfaces can't be doing any good.
Considering that the new ball mount and shank together cost $300 I would
think they would fit the receiver better. (I suppose that half or two
thirds of the price goes to product liability insurance as in the case
of ladders and airplanes.)
>
> Reese sells a fairly long box end wrench along side the hitches for just
> such occasions.
>
Yeah, and I have one. They are a good value for the money, $11 at my
nearby auto part store. One end is 1 1/8" to fit hitch balls with a
3/4" shank, and also incidentally fits the 3/4" cross bolts and their
nuts. The other end of the box wrench is 1 1/2" to fit hitch balls with
a 1" shank. But the big balls with a 1 1/4" shank have a 1 7/8" hex
nut. The wrench bears a label that says it's suitable for removal and
initial tightening of hitch balls, but that final tightening *must*
(emphasis theirs) be done to the specified value using a torque wrench.
I'm not sure a box wrench would even stand up to that much torque (250
ft-lb for a 1" shank). Over the years I have cracked a couple of box
wrenches--pulling on the wrench with hands, not pipe extensions or some
such. (Fortunately they had a lifetime guarantee.)
>
> I've have had too many Crescent wrenches slip to ever heave on one with
> all I'm worth. Its too much bother growing skin back on knuckles that
> hit something unfriendly when the Crescent wrench let loose.
Point well taken--not for nothing are they called "knuckle busters"--but
I was sitting on the ground with my feet braced against a curb pulling
the wrench toward me--so there's not much to bust my knuckles on if the
wrench slipped.
Best,
John Sellers
WBCCI/VAC #1587
1960 Pacer (for sale)
1980 International Caravelle
Dayton, Ohio