Thanks. I assumed the tank was stainless because it was sooo shiny where
all the aluminum is sooo dingy.
No pump on board so, maybe that was removed. I will look to see if an air
line is present.
Maybe this is a dumb question but... How does one remove the tank for
inspection or replacement? At first glance it looked quite integrated into
the body. I haven't looked really closely at it yet. Could be the new floor
is covering up the bolts or is it rivets. It is still at the POs house till
Saturday. The more homework I do before I get going. The easier the job will
go.
Thanks for the info on the wiring for the signal lights. Your assumptions
were correct. I was told they don't work. Haven't been able to to put an ohm
meeter on them yet. I figured a good visual inspection of the 56 year old
wires at select spots was a worthy effort and if they passed then proceed to
the possible bad bulbs and sockets as well as bad ground connections. Just
needed to know where they ran before I started tearing apart the wrong
spots.
This information makes me breath much easier. I will have to pull up the
floor in the vary back to find out why the bumper is a little loose and was
hoping the signal light wires were there for inspection as well. 2 birds
with 1 stone idea. Thanks.
Does anyone know if the signal lights are 12 volt or 6 volt? If 6 volt, Are
there 12 volt replacement bulbs available? I know some vehicles back in the
50s used 6 volt systems. What about the electric brakes. Are they designed
for 12 or 6 volt systems? If 6 volt, What needs to be replaced to make them
12 volt or do I just turn the controller settings down?
I hope that this fall I will be able to actually take it camping.
Thanks everyone.
Warren
1953 Cruiser O4032
Western Kentucky, USA.
> Warren,
>
> Like was said earlier, your tank is most likely aluminum. ...snip...
>
> As for your running/tail lights. ...snip....
>
> Scott
> 1960 Overlander 26 foot