Hi Martin,
The flange on my '68 was a two piece. A metal ring that housed the hold
down bolts for the toilet which was screwed to the floor and a flange that
housed the seal which was screwed into the black tank. I used a home made
tool similar to Glyns, but I used metal instead of plywood. The handle was
about 2' long though as I needed a lot of torque to get mine loose.
Anything that will fit into the slots and have an arm for leverage will
work. If your setup is two pieces like mine, the metal rings are available
at RV supplie places and Lowes and HD. I haven't seen the screw in part so
like Glyn said, be careful.
I just took the drain out of my '77 shower which screws into the black ABS
pipe. I tried to use the cross pieces of metal in the bottom to screw the
drain out, but they broke off with very little force applied. They are just
pot metal. I ended up using a dremel with a cut off wheel to cut around the
top of the metal drain just below the flange to remove the flange. After
removing the pan I was able to use a large pipe wrench to remove the
threaded portion from the pipe. Luckily the drain is a standard size so I
found a replacement at Lowes.
I'm looking for the trim myself with ho avail. If you find a source please
share it with all of us.
I have a little gap around my shower pan floor too and plan to use some
expanding foam to fill it in. There are several types so if you plan to try
it, get the low expansion type. Some of the stuff is really strong and
expands a lot and could distort your plastic.
Pete
> Martin,
>
> Gosh, what a job you have ahead of you but I know it'll be 1,000% better
> when you've finished.
>
> I might be of some help with one of your questions, black water flange
> removal. My steel-rimmed toilet flange above the raised area that accepts
> the toilet bolts and couples to the black water tank below was quite rusted
> too but I was able to clean it up and repaint it. I might add that it's
> been manufactured to rotate in the black plastic (ABS?) flange beneath it
> for finite toilet bowl orientation. There should be screws in that steel
> collar into the fiberglass and plywood beneath to keep it and the toilet
> from rotating after installation.
>
> To your question of how to get your flange and steel collar out, if it's
> anything like mine, there'll be two slots 180 degrees opposite one another
> in the top-most part of the black flange (inboard of the steel rotating
> collar).
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