Martin,
Gosh, what a job you have ahead of you but I know it'll be 1,000% better
when you've finished.
I might be of some help with one of your questions, black water flange
removal. My steel-rimmed toilet flange above the raised area that accepts
the toilet bolts and couples to the black water tank below was quite rusted
too but I was able to clean it up and repaint it. I might add that it's
been manufactured to rotate in the black plastic (ABS?) flange beneath it
for finite toilet bowl orientation. There should be screws in that steel
collar into the fiberglass and plywood beneath to keep it and the toilet
from rotating after installation.
To your question of how to get your flange and steel collar out, if it's
anything like mine, there'll be two slots 180 degrees opposite one another
in the top-most part of the black flange (inboard of the steel rotating
collar).
As I recall, they're 1/4" wide and a properly cut length of 1/4" plywood
will slip right into them. Let's say that they're 3" apart. I made a
removal tool from a 3" long 3" wide piece of 1/4" plywood that I added a 6"
length of 1X2 to at the top to make a handle grip of sorts. Think odd
looking T and you've got it. By inserting the plywood in the slots and
leaning my full body weight over the tool, I grabbed each end of the 6" part
and slowly began to unscrew it. Imagine my surprise when it threaded out
soooo easily because the male threads of the black plastic flange was
screwed into the female threads of the milky white polyethylene fitting spun
into the polyethylene black water holding tank.
Well that's all I can contribute, I hope others can help with your other
questions.
I might add that despite a thorough nation-wide search, I never did find
a replacement for that original flange. So be gentle as can be with yours.
Good luck,
Glyn Judson, 1969 Caravel #508, Santa Monica, CA
> I have a question for those who have taken out your shower pans. I have a
> 1961 Bambi. I am having to pull the shower and stool out to repair a bad
> floor. I have removed all of the vent stack and supporting water ways for
> the gray water. So I have infront of me a raised area that supports the
> stool and a lower area which contains the drain for the shower. My toilet
> flange, quite rusted and now I am wondering just how to extract the flange
> and then be able to lift out the shower pan.
>
> This trailer still has the original black tank which appears to be in good
> condition no leaks yet. My question is does anyone know if the flange is
> threaded to the tank or glued in? Has anyone successfully removed their
> flange? What is the trick for doing this?
>
> Along with this question, as I removed the seal and junk around the pan, the
> area on the outside edge of the pan, there is as much as 1in. of space
> between the trailer wall and the pan. My question is; What should I use to
> close this open space when I reinstall the pan?
>
> Does anyone know of a source for trim around the pan and trailer walls?
> Summry:
> In a 60's model, is the stool flange glued or is it threaded to the tank?
>
> Has anyone successfully removed the stool flange from a 60's model?
>
> What is the trick for removing the stool flange?
>
> Are there any suggestions for filling the space around the shower pan (area
> between the pan and trailer walls)?
>
> Does someone know a source for the trim (seal) needed to keep water from
> geting between the pan and the walls of the trailer and then down to the new
> floor?
>
> Martin Hughey
> WBCCI 10212
> 1969 International & 1961 Bambi "1631"