Bill,
I too have used PEX to repair some freeze-split copper in our '69
Caravel and I got around the natural curve of the tubing by rotating it so
the curve forced the end down which allowed me to push it along the floor
from the back near the city water pressure regulator, under the shower
threshold into the hanging locker and a 90 to the good existing copper
tubing.
In the course of buying the tubing, I was introduced to Cash Acme
Sharkbite fittings. They're bronze cast fittings with reusable O-ring
sealing technology that are as easy to use as pushing them on to the end of
the PEX. Check out the link and click on the demo shown below. It works
exactly in real life as the demo illustrates. It's really neat and fast
too, the best part being that there are no tools needed except a knife or
such to cut the tubing. The fittings are also great for difficult corners,
etc where tightening tools are impossible to use.
I highly recommend these fittings based on personal experience using
them. They haven't leaked under constant pressure for more than a year, if
not approaching two years. Here's the link with their neat demo:
http://cashacme.com/SB_present_full.htm
Good luck and let us all know how it comes out,
Glyn Judson, 1969 Caravel #508, Santa Monica, CA
> I am running 1/2 inch pex from the pump at the front
> to the water heater and beyond, at the rear.
>
> My question is:
> Since the pex is curled as it comes off the roll,
> would it be a good idea to hook the pex to the end of
> the copper that I will be pulling out? That way it
> would go through the channel as the old copper comes
> out.
>
> If so, what would be the west way to attach it. I have
> "gorilla" tape, think that would do it? It has to run
> through the bottom of the closet, behind the pantry,
> behind the fridge and the living room cabinet and
> folding table, then clear space to the front fitting
> spaghetti bowl.
> TIA
> cheers, bill b.
>
> 1969 Sovereign 31'