RE: [VAL] Vent

["Eddie Huffstetter" <eddiehuffstetter@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Jerry,

I have done this. You can buy, or best fabricate a stong and complete plate 
for the top and bottom of the opening. I used polished stainless 1/16 inner 
and 3/16 outer plate for strength, corrosion, and appearance to obtain a 
14x14 opening. I used ss rivets and kept the size so that it was concealed 
by the ceiling assembly. I boxed the two plates for strength of a 14" 
opening and used rivets for all. Sealing was done with the 1/2" a/c putty 
peel roll since it never hardens, is easy to apply and to remove. I do not 
like the commercial galvanized tin adapters that are available. They rust 
and are weak, but work.

If installing the carrier unit, the 14" opening should be reduced as the 
carrier does not need the large opening for the anchor bolts, so box it 
smaller for added strength.

I had to run supply wiring. That was a lot of work to feed, conceal, and not 
diminish insulation. The new location was well worth the efforts. You must 
use 10/2 with ground gauge wiring. I used the stronger insulated direct 
burial grey jacketed romex. Be sure not to damage the wiring when 
fish-pulling. Be sure to use gromets or cut pieces of hose to protect from 
sharp edge wear-damage.

I always install roof air units with a contactor and thermostat for full 
unit shut down like in your home central unit. This is simple to do by 
installing at your breaker box and NOT at the roof air. All wireing and 
access for this is made simple cycles entire unit power for safety. This 
prevents the roof air from putting evaporator moisture back into the coach 
during compressor cycling, just like in your home. It make operation 
cheaper, unit last longer, etc.

Hope this helps.

-Eddie-