[VAL] Bellypan Rivet Repair

["kodiak66joe" <kodiak66joe@xxxxxxxxxx>]

Over the weekend I took some time to crawl around under the '66 Overlander
and found that a number of bellypan rivets are "missing". In some cases the
rivet head broke off, but in many cases it is still there, it's just that
the bellypan aluminum corroded enough that the head just "pulled thru" an
enlarged hole. I am wondering what is recommended to repair this?

I can tell a number of places were previously repaired by riveting thru
little 1"x1" "repair squares". I'm not sure of the material (steel or
aluminum). The concept is the rivet holds up the "repair square" which holds
up the bellypan. The concept seems simple enough, but the "repair squares"
seem "home made". I don't have an easy way to create more of them, so I am
looking for alternatives and have a few questions:

1) Being concerned about galvanic corrosion, should I strictly be looking at
using aluminum for my "repair squares" (or equivalent), or could steel or
stainless steel be an acceptible alternative? The frame is steel, the
bellypan is aluminum, the rivets are TBD (I'll use aluminum unless there is
a good reason to use steel). Unless everything is steel there will be an
interface for corrosion to take place. Would sandwiching the bellypan
between two pieces of steel be worse than using an aluminum washer/"repair
square" to hold it against the steel frame?  If steel is OK, should I opt
for stainless steel?

2) Are pop rivets OK to reattach the bellypan, or should I plan to use
Olympic rivets?  Steel or aluminum Rivets?  (Of course I only have aluminum
olympics.)

3)  Is there any reason I can't use some sort of washer, rather than making
my own "repair squares"?  There are many choices for washers (at least based
upon what I found at nearby hardware stores and home centers):

a) Steel Fender Washers: These have small inner holes (1/8", 5/32", 3/16",
etc.), but large outer diameters (3/4", 7/8", 1", etc) and that appear to be
of a suitable thickness. I have found them in Steel, Zinc Coated Steel, and
Stainless Steel (but not aluminum).  These look promising, except for a the
potential to rust or promte corrosion of the remaining bellypan aluminum.

b) Aluminum Washers: Sometimes sold as "rivet rings" or someling like that.
They have correct hole sizes, but much smaller outer diameters - perhaps too
small.  I doubt these would work.

c) Insulated or Sealing Washers - They tend to be galvanized steel with a
rubber (or similar) coating on one side. They seem to typically be sized
between standard washers and fender washers. I could put the steel side
against the rivet head and the rubber side against the bellypan. If I do
this, should I plan to use steel rivets?  These could be a possibility.

Or should I just buy some aluminum bar or sheet stock and find a way to cut
it into squares?

All thoughts or ideas appreciated.  I'd like to replace the "missing"
bellypan rivets before Saturday when we take off on vacation, if possible.
For me it all comes down mainly to a question of what matrerial I should be
using to make the repairs: aluminum, steel, stainess steel, etc.  Or does it
not really matter as all corrosion will take another 38 years to manifest
itself?  If it matters, the trailer is stored outdoors, in Michigan.

Thanks in advance,

Joe
'66 Overlander