Re: [VACList] 12V fuse block

["Jim Dunmyer" <jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Jim,
 I've wired several P/U trucks for trailer connections in the past few
years, and have some definite preferences. (right or wrong, it's the way I
do it)

The connector on the rear of the truck is pre-wired with 20-25' of
7-conductor cable that's meant for RV use. NAPA has it, as does our local
Coleman dealer. I make NO connections under the vehicle, but do leave a loop
of cable to allow replacement of the connector when it eventually goes bad.
(Liberal application of dielectric grease helps to postpone that day)

I use a Hoppy Lighting Isolator, mounted under the hood or dash, to keep the
truck and trailer wiring seperate. This gadget, available from NAPA, JC
Whitney, and others, is triggered by the truck's lights and provides the
actual power to the trailer lights. It's fed from a fused connection right
off the battery.

The charge line is fed by a heavy-duty relay. Again, it comes from NAPA,
looks like a Ford-style starter relay ("solenoid"), and has a continuous
duty coil. The coil is powered by the ACC line, so it drops out during
cranking. I prefer the relay over a diode-style isolator because of the lack
of voltage drop and the fact that it won't interfere with the alternator's
sensing of the battery voltage. Also, I don't have to cut into the
heavy-duty wiring between the alternator and battery. The charge line comes
directly from the battery, protected with either a fuse or an
automotive-style circuit breaker.

FWIW:

                                                         <<Jim>>