[VACList] Floor Repairs

["Brian Jenkins" <jenkins1924@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Hello All,

Thanks for your responses to my post. Let me address a few points in order:

(Jon Fitz)  Jon, I just replaced the entire rear floor section of a friend's 
'65 Safari. If you'd like to give me a call at (214) 535-1553 I think I can 
give you some info that might make it easier.

(Corbin Bates)  Hi Corbin. Yes, this method can be used at the edges of the 
floor but the reason mitering the patch works so well is that it places the 
entire joint in equal compression. That is, as the patch is pushed down it 
acts as a wedge which wants to push the edges of the hole outward. Since the 
outside edge is not contained, but only bolted to the U-channel, I'd suggest 
cutting the hole and the patch as slight trapezoids with the outside edge 
being the shortest side. This would cause the edges of the hole to put the 
patch in compression as it attempted to slide outward. The Roto-Tool will 
only cut to within an inch or so of the wall. After that, you will have to 
continue the cut with a sharp chisel.

The way I'd set the depth of the cut would be to determine the exact 
flooring thickness (it varied somewhat through the years) by finding a cut 
through it (there is usually a hole under the furnace for air feed) and 
measuring there. Then I'd experiment with a scrap piece of the same 
thickness until the blade came within a hair of cutting all the way through. 
Make the cut on the floor, pry out the cut piece, then clean up the cut when 
you can see what's under it. It is very important to nail (or screw) the 
guide battens down well, and to KEEP THE BASE OF THE SAW PRESSED FIRMLY 
AGAINST THEM and to cut VERY SLOWLY. Since Roto-Tools cut with a rotary 
action, they want to pull in the direction of their rotation. If your tool 
rotates clockwise, cut the hole from left to right. This will cause the tool 
to pull TOWARDS the batten.

This method can be used on a patch of any size. Remember that as the patch 
gets bigger, there will be beams beneath it for support. With marine epoxy, 
there is no difference structurally between this patch and a solid piece of 
wood.

(Dr. Johnson)  The reason a mitered joint is stronger than a stepped joint 
is that the entire joint is in compression. Half of the wood in a stepped 
joint (the vertical cuts) are in shear.

Using battens under the hole is certainly acceptable, but I'm a little weird 
about the Zen of minimalism. I'm a designer by trade and the spirits of my 
old Airstreams tell me to make little improvements where I can, but to do it 
in a ways that don't change the basic structure.

(Jim Smith)  Great point. There are several thickeners, from sawdust to 
microballoons, which will fill any gaps (the good thing about Airstreams is 
that they don't sink if there IS a gap) and cause the epoxy to cling to the 
vertical edges of the cuts. I'd thicken it to a ketchup or peanut butter 
consistency. West Systems has plenty of info for free.

Sorry for the long post,
Brian Jenkins, #7819 WBCCI, VAC
'57 Overlander, ' 56 Caravanner