[VAC] Re: Winterizing

[Roy Lashway <rlashway@xxxxxxxxxx>]

>From my files:   Original from Charlie Burke
========
Hopefully this will serve as a guide for winterizing you Airstream. It
reflects the way we have done it at our dealership. We guarantee no
freeze up.
Insure the holding tank(s) are empty and add the holding tank chemical
of your choice.
Drain the fresh water tank or pump out through the low point drains.
Demand systems are more quickly pumped out. Pressure systems are more
easily drained through their bottom drain. Most newer Airstreams (60's
+) with a demand system will also have a drain plug in the fresh water
tank. It will be above the belly service panel. Do not drain the water
heater.
A pressure water system is one with a metal tank and an air pressure
pump. It will typically have an air chuck in the tank cap. It uses air
pressure to force water throughout the coach. A demand system has a
pressure controlled water pump in the outlet line of the tank. The tank
is plastic unless the system has been converted and the old metal tank
left in service. A demand system uses a pressure switch on the output of
the pump to sense the drop in pressure when you open a tap. It will then
pump water until you close the tap and it gets up to about 45 lbs.
Using clean compressed air and about 50 psi attach it to the city water
fill. Open the drain (not the PTR) on the water heater and let the air
pressure blow the water out. This scavenges the minerals out of the tank
and extends the life of the tank. It is not a good idea to use air from
and unknown source (gas stations etc.) as their air tanks quite often
have oil etc. in them. Once the heater is empty close the drain. Inside
with a rag or towel in hand open the furthest tap away from the city
water inlet and let the water blow out. Do both hot and cold side. Move
back toward the water inlet being sure to do the shower/bath and toilet.
Disconnect the compressed air.
If possible a water heater bypass will simplify the next step. Some
coaches lend themselves to the installation of a bypass while others
simply do not. A water heater bypass is a combination of 1-3 valves
which will either block the water from going through the water heater
and bypassing it or allow the water to flow through the heater for
normal use.
For pressure systems add enough RV style nontoxic antifreeze to the
fresh water tank to fill the plumbing and p traps. 1-2 gallons plus the
capacity of the water heater if it is not bypassed. Using the air
pressure pump force the antifreeze out each of the taps running enough
to displace the remaining water in the p trap ( a couple of ounces).
Insure you open all taps cold and hot and the toilet. Drain any
remaining anti-freeze from the tank.
For demand systems locate the water pump. Disconnect the low pressure or
tank side fitting. Temporarily connect a fitting and line long enough to
put the other end in a bottle of anti-freeze. Turn on the pump. Go to
the furthest hot water tap and open it. Let the pump run until you start
to see pink anti-freeze. For coaches over about 18-19 feet you will
likely need to change the bottle about now. For units with no water
heater bypass you will have to change the bottle several times. Once
steady flow is established turn of the tap and open the cold side. Again
once it is steady move to the next tap and the next including the toilet
until you are done.
Hope this helps. If I missed anything let the group know.
==============


Roy Lashway
'78 Argosy,'56 Bubble
WBCCI 1610     VAC
rlashway@zianet.com
web site: www.zianet.com/rlashway
   (polishing report included)