[VAC] Copper Tubing

[Motternman@xxxxxx]

Two years ago, my husband and I restored our 1969 Overlander.  One major 
upfit was to entirely replace the plumbing with Pex/Lowes Brand plastic 
tubing, as well as water pump and water heater.  

The mass of fittings in the rear hatch (and around the pump, tank, drains and 
heater too) required a good bit of planning and sketching, measuring and 
replanning.  In any place to install the Pex, you have to realize that the 
fittings that are unreachable with the crimper tool, must be made before 
other fittings with the parts outside the camper (on the ground or camper 
floor  usually).  The last fittings crimped in an area, must be in the area 
that is accessable.  ie located in the door opening.  I assembled all the 
drain valves and tee's and elbows which were in a real difficult to reach 
places, on the ground outside, using careful measurements and rethinking each 
connection before making.  Ok I had to cut out a few joints, and re-cut some 
tube lengths.  You should take all your measurements and photos too and do 
some good sketching of the exisitng plumbing, before you remove the old.  
Then cut your tubing and number the lengths, and dry fit it all together in 
place to ensure it fits, before crimping the first fitting.  Crimp the hardes 
to reach places first and work towards the easiers.  

Where I had angles of rotated tees or elbows, I found that while dry fitted 
in place, it helped to take a "Sharpie" marker and mark a line across the 
fitting and tubing so that when I reassembled outside the camper to make the 
crimps, I could match the mark and end up with the right angle of rotation.  

Best advice I can put into one sentence is this:  Dry fit everything in a 
tubing run, before crimping, then crimp in order of hardest to reach to the 
easiest to reach.  It's not so easy a baby could do it, but it ain't rocket 
surgery either.

Best Wishes,
Brenda Mottern  '69 Overlander