Peter: The last owner of my 69 Overlander set out to repair all the plumbing breaks and ran some credible copper line, which looks great, some plastic tubing, which works and some insulated line that's kinda clumsy but servicable. Minor leaks, easily fixed. Problem is, he took the bathroom apart to do it, and putting it back together is a very exact science. I've got minor gaps, a little daylight, some broken rivet holes..He left the riveted flange track & cover track off & now I'm debating piecing the bathroom back together properly & riveting said track back or getting some adhesive backed molding to run in the channel. I'd lean to the latter if I found a source for 3/4" molding without chrome accents (auto part store stuff). I'm putting some time in it tomorrow & may know more then. Be careful how you take the fiberglass panels out. Take lots of pictures w/ a digital camera, try not to bend the flange track or molding that snaps into it. Label every piece in a manner that leaves no room for interpretation. The first reply to your posting said a lot that I would agree with.. you don't have half the problems you think you do, the sink & tub "leaks" are probably just the gray water dynamics, the knife valve is easily fixed. You might get by on the freash water intake with a rubber hose gasket & a little muscle in the seating of the coupling, assuming the leak isn't further downstream. Check with Jim Greene on that hot water heater, he's doing his 69 Tradewind as we speak. BTW, if any list members have fixed their bathroom trim, please advise. What I have is servicable but unasthetic & might leak shower water into the insulation. Please feel free to send photos off list with specific questions, I'm figuring it all out, too, & could use the emotional support Jeff Miller KCMO 69 Overbudget
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