[VAC] Re: 59 Overlander plumbing re-fit Q's

["Mr. Joy H. Hansen" <joytbrew@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Hi Chris,

Your absolutely right about the cost of the fittings for crimp vs.. the cost
of the hand tighten fittings.  That's my problem right now.  The path of
the cold water from aft to fore is a tortuous one to say the least.  Around
the wheel well, around the furnace, around the refrigerator, under the
dining area and into the water pump compartment.

I think I've got the water heater worked out as they make a brass 1/2 inch
male to PEX  "L" compression fitting.  Rather than running the cold water on
the floor as in the original, I'm thinking to run it over the wheel well and
 over the furnace to keep the heat off the tube and eliminate a  half
dozen street "Ls" in the system.  I think I have to retain the copper
pressure valves and regulators and sweat fittings to allow use of the
compression rings.

I'm having difficult visualizing how much bend the PEX can take without
using hold down straps, etc. to keep it in place.

The local wholesale plumbing shop rents the compression tool for $10 a day,
the 1/2 inch PEX tubing is $25 per  hundred and the fittings are pennies.
It's the hand tighten compression fittings that are expensive.  Harvey
Barlow mentioned leaving the copper valves in place to get away from the
bulky plastic valves.  I'll eventually get it done, but the plumbing is a
major factor preventing me from really moving forward in the restoration.

                                               Regards, '69 Safari, Joy