[VAC] Re: Balsa core flooring

[rlb <blammo@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Gerald,

Since we've most likely filled a whole index section with these radiant floor
posts, I'll call this my last on the subject, unless I can think of something to
add that is more VAS significant.

> The manifold based radiant heater requires far smaller diameter lines to
> have enough pressure drop in each to split the flow between them well.
> Small diameter lines present some problems: they clog easier and they
> have far less surface area so don't transfer water heat as well. Plastic
> lines depend on having a fairly large surface area to overcome the
> insulation inherent in the plastic.

I think the plastic would work well for just that characteristic, the heat would
be retained in the tubing all the way to the end of the loop better than if it
were a material that transfered heat better. All the heat goes somewhere, it's
just how fast it gets there that the materials seem to affect.

> Copper lines transfer heat well, but make noise as their temperature
> changes because they have to grow and shrink independent of their
> surroundings.

My house currently has baseboard copper, and yes is does do the creaking thing,
but where the plastic tube supports are still in place, there is little or no
noise.

> The wall mounted radiant heater band would tend to not warm the feet,
> and other than my hands, I find warm toes are more important than the
> rest of me (probably because the rest of me has more padding).

I tend to think of my trailer as a really nice tent rather than a home, may
change this attitude in the future though. And when it's cold enough outside to
require wearing shoes, then I tend to also wear them inside, just me though. I
haven't tried winder or Fall trailering yet though. I do plan on it.

> A problem
> with running lines the length of the sides (or even a significant
> fraction) is in getting past the skin spacer spars inside the walls
> (e.g. aluminum wall studs.)

I was thinking of either a flat spot in the curve of the skin or a subtle bump
on the inside wall face.

> And tends to require pulling the entire
> interior skin to install in the wall.

I think that a bumped out setup would get the convection going a bit better as
well.

> So long as the temperature is low
> like the modern in-floor radiant heating, finger contact shouldn't be a
> problem. When you raise the water temperature significantly, then you
> begin to work on heating and moving air and you need fins to be
> effective. Which makes the heater gain in thickness.

I have some literature around some where on some plastic extruded baseboard that
is only 1" thick, everything is extruded, the tubing, the case, and the fins.

> There are low temperature heaters sold for bathrooms that are a manifold
> of flat tubing, good for use as a towel warmer too. Look for it in Fine
> Homebuilding magazine.

The ones I've seen tend to be a bit chunky looking and take up space in the
wrong directions

> I think the chemical version of the surflo RV water pumps would do fine
> and would run on 12 volts when away from utility power. While I'm also
> no fan of gas, it has a portability not available with a power cord. It
> allows being independent of special camping places, to park most
> anywhere and to be self sufficient. Many prefer that mode to being
> parked cheek by jowl even if the close parking includes lots of electric
> power capability.

I've got a friend that has a 15k generator for sale on skids, we could rig up a
trailer . . .       :-)

bobb