Re: [SilverStreak] (Fwd) Help re Removing toilet platform

[<thetansedan@xxxxxxx>]

My '83 had the wood rotted from a leaking toilet sprayer. B There is not a
platform, per se, but a doubling of wood that the toilet mount is on. B We
removed the sink cabinetry and had to cut out the wood from the toilet/closet
face to and thru the trunk. B New toilet, new mount, new water supply cut-off
onto the new floor and re-assembly of cabinetry.

Trailer is a 1983B Silver StreakB Model 3411. We bought this recently from a
very nice couple outside Montgomery, Texas and have hauled it back to Dallas
(with a trip back and forth to Corpus Christi). The carpeting was removed and
leaks were searched out. The awning came loose in a windstorm several years
back according to PO, and the starboard bow has several tears around window
which have been "fixed" (hopefully). The floor in that corner was wet after
weeks of rain, but dried up nicely. Used antifreeze and a heat lamp to get it
back to normal. Plan to swab some penetrating epoxy over it. (WEST MARINE).
The same around doorway where old weathergasket leaked.

The subfloor is 19/32" exterior-grade plywood throughout (a reference on the
tommpatterson site (brochure) was that early 1970's trailers had 5/8
subflooring). The worst area was the bathroom where a leaking toilet "water
saver" (sprayer) had rotted out the wood in conjunction with what appeared to
be plumbing stack leakage (All three stacks have been replaced with metal
pieces fromB Vintage Trailer Supply - Vintage travel trailer parts and
supplies!B andB Acryl-R). Mold extends slightly up under wardrobe on port side
(near to water heater), but we'll undercut it and slide some new wood in
place. As the port side bathroom wardrobe contains the water heater (on the
subfloor, underneath a false bottom) and the electrical distribution panel
(upper portion, at wall to bedroom), it was determined that this was more
trouble than it was worth at present. I'll use more bleach and then more
antifreeze on it if it appears to be growing.

A single piece of 5/8" CDX was purchased and will provide enough for the
rearmost 4x8 replacement (including toilet stand). If I have time, a coat
ofB Sherwin-WilliamsB A-100 exterior-grade latex primer will be brushed on.

I went out today to purchase supplies and bought fasteners in a close or
barely larger size to replace those removed. (Few required cutoff; most of
those near to toilet):

100 pcs each (for future jobs); boxes:
8x5/8 Combo Pan Sheet Metal Screws (Zinc)
8x1 Slotted Hex Washer Sheet Metal Screws (Zinc)
12x1 Phillips Flat Sheet Metal Screws (Zinc)
10x1-1/4 Combo Sheet Metal Screws (Zinc)

(Stll need the big floor screws, almost lag screw type but self-drilling)

The work includes removing the toilet, sink/vanity, the wall separating the
trunk from the bath (many of the countertop screws are accessed from trunk)
and to access the floor attaching points of the 4x8 panel. We cut the vertical
trunk panel in order to remove it (there was a seam we followed), and that was
the only difficulty (for re-assembly).

The new floor has been cut (three pieces) as a single piece would be just too
much to try to maneuver into place during reassembly. (The third piece is the
toilet flange). We'll "sister" onto one of the frame riggers to get the floor
installed.

There is no significant rust on the metal frame as exposed, and the insulation
(removed) wasn't bad. In fact, besides the wood, nothing looked as if it had
suffered years of water attack.

This work included several men on a crew and labor total was around six hours.
The work went easily until it was time for the painstaking removal of small
rotted pieces. Had to use a chisel and pliers to get wood from the interface
of skin/frame around perimeter.

The one spot that was difficult was the corner nearest the window of the
countertop/sink/shower enclosure. This will necessitate a bit of time to
properly replace.

Is there a "C" channel as the A/S folks have? No, not per se as the floor is
not a structural member in the same manner. However, the exterior skin and
interior skin (separated by 4" of insulted space) are underlain by a metal
skin and the wood subfloor is very tightly held in place, as well as screwed
in from underneath. (A more experienced S/S owner can chime in here to correct
me). This is based on what I can see and feel. A more extensive floor
replacement would benefit by removal of the belly skins (on an S/S there is 4"
of insulated/skin and 4" empty air space to belly skin underneath the
subfloor). I can see no reason not to simply take the time to remove from the
interior space as we are doing, removing the lower skins would be prohibitive,
IMO.


-----Original Message-----
From: Bev Harris <zia@ix.netcom.com>
To: sslist@tompatterson.com
Sent: Tue, 29 Apr 2008 10:47 pm
Subject: [SilverStreak] (Fwd) Help re Removing toilet platform


Our new-to-us '64' SS 20' Sabre has a leak under the toilet platform.  I've
been trying to figure out how to get down into it  without destroying it.  Can
anyone offer any help?

I'll be working on it again this weekend ...

Bev
1964 SS 20' Sabre

P.S. I sent a msg a couple days ago that didn't get posted.  Maybe it was too
long?