Re: [SilverStreak] Western Wheel Lug nut torque spec

["waymark1@xxxxxxxx" <waymark1@xxxxxxxx>]

I saw a set of these caps on a SS, I think in Texas. They were very
rusty, so I know they were chromed steel.

The nuts should be tightened in 2 stages: first to about 2/3 of the
spec. and then to full tightness. As the wheels have 6 holes, each
tightening stage is to be in each of the 2 "triangles". For the first
stage of tightening the wheel should be unloaded - off the ground. This
helps make sure the wheel is properly centered on the studs.
NEVER use an impact wrench to tighten wheel nuts or screws. Impact
wrenches are for loosening ONLY.
When using a torque wrench, keep the nut turning until the wrench
"clicks" ("click" type) or the pointer (bending-beam and dial types)
gets to the proper reading. If the nut stops turning before reaching
the spec., loosen slightly and retighten. Static friction is much
greater than dynamic, so it takes much greater torque to start turning
again once the nut has stopped. This gives a grossly incorrect reading.
After towing about 50 miles, slightly loosen each nut, just enough that
it can be retightened, and retorque to spec.
I have the sheet from WW that authorizes the use of their wheels on the
SS. The wheels were tested by an independent lab. and found to be amply
strong for use on the SS even though the SS loads the wheels above
their catalog limit.
From the looks of the tires being "scroonched" I would imagine that the
side loading on the wheels is considerable when the trailer is being
turned sharply. I can see the wheels and axles (mostly the spindles?)
deflecting! 3 axle trailers must scrub their tires much worse than a 2
axle.
The reason solid cast wheels need retorquing is that there is virtually
no "give" to the metal, no springiness. Pressed steel wheels have the
nut seats coined and the seats are springy, which helps maintain
tightness somewhat like a spring lockwasher does.

Al G.