4. If there is too much space between the main bows (ribs, frame members) to
properly mount a new air conditioner without the addition of lateral supports
(2) between the main bows, what material should be used for such lateral
supports and how should these be attached to the main bows.
I am in the process of rebuilding a 1963 Safari recently purchased, I had MANY leaks.
Two main problems are the floor is rotted, and must be replaced and the roof just to
the rear of the original A/C collapsed due to a buildup of ice and snow. This was towed
home with What I thought was 6 inches of snow, but was 4 inches of ice and 2 inches of snow.
The floor has been removed and I found many leaks around all windows. I applied Vulkem around
the window mouldings and have stopped 95% of the leaks. I have a leak at the rear window which
is coming from water getting behind the Airstream nameplate and in behind window gutter.
I have a leak at the floor, center rear, which I think is due to outside storage in bumper
being slopped towards trailer. The floor is open and the walls are open at this point. I don't
see any signs of moisture in my walls! I had a leak at refrigerator vent, seems stopped.
Once floor is in and weather warms, I will redo all seams which look like they haven't been
done in twenty years.
I have a California built Safari and have discovered that in a nine foot section from the front
of the door to the rear curved area I have no Ribs going clear across! instead the ribs go up
the side and end in the center. The opposite rib from the other side is offset ~16 inches.
There are supports between the ribs spaced about 16 inches apart allowing space for A/C and vents.
I will add support since the ribs have been bent downward three inches.
I would go over all seams and openings with vulkem or par before replacing the A/C
Paul
Troy MI
1997 34' front kitchen
1963 22' Safari