Daisy
That could be it, I didn't notice the curve of my trailer causing the WH to
be bent like that, but it may be slightly bowed. I didn't use the door that
came with the WH, instead I used a piece of .040 stainless and made one. The
sides, and top edges I bent so they covered the edges of the WH.
Bobby
>
> Hi folks,
>
> an update on the hotwater heater pilot light issue.
>
> First of all, there is no pilot adjustment on this heater, it even says
> so right on the control box. So that lets that part out.
>
> Since the pilot stays lit unless the wind blows, I'm thinking the
> thermocouple is OK, although I think I will try to bend it into a more
> intimate position relative to the flame.
>
> A kind soul sent me this privately and with his permission, I'll share:
>
> When I got my 78 AS I had the same problem. The sides of an AS are
> curved. The frame of the water heater is not. When my heater was
> replaced the screws were over tightened pulling the heater frame
> tight agaisnt the curved sides of the trailor. This distorted the
> heater frame causing a large gap between the heater frame and heater
> door. This allowed wind to easily blow the pilot out and it didn't
> take much of a breeze. The cure was simple enough. I shut the propane
> tanks off and removed all the screws from the heater. I did not
> disconnect the water lines or the gas lines. I took a sharpe thin
> paring knife, the kind that you get from Wal Mart for 99 cents. I cut
> thru the sealer and pulled the heater away from the trailor body.
> About a half inch. Then using whatever tools that work, cut and
> scrape ALL the old sealer out. Now straighten the heater frame. It
> wasn't to hard. I think I was able to do it with my hands. Most of
> the distortion was on the top and bottom due to the curve of the
> sides. Put the door back on and notice that it fits well enough to
> keep winnd out. Take the door back off for the time being. Easier to
> work eith it out of the way. Push the heater back in and you will
> notice that it will contact the trailer body on the sides bur have a
> gap top and bottom. As I recall the gap was about a 1/4". I used paint
> stir sticks as shims. Cut them to lentgh and width. I used silicone
> for a sealer. Coat both sides of the sticks and put them between the
> heater frame and the trailor. I used silicone as a sealer. You will
> have to drill holes thru the shims to allow the crews to thread into
> the trailor sides. Put the door back on and make certain it fitts
> well enough to keep wind out. Mine was more distoted on the bottom
> than the top. Don't over tighten the screws. Recheck them a day later
> after the sealer has cured. It doesn't take much to hold the heater
>
> I had put my old silver painted cover on and after replacing it with the new
> one, I think it is a better fit around the edges which I hope will solve the
> problem for anything besides the
> Santa Anas.
>
> Thanks to all !!!
>
> Daisy
> in. Good luck....Arnie