Thanks for the input Scott. For some reason I wasn't getting my post and I
was worried that it wasn't getting through to the list! You may have gotten
a duplicate because I posted once last night and once this morning. Sorry
for the duplication.
> Except for near the wheels, you do not want to make the belly pan water
tight.
Yes, I understand that and didn't make my question very clear. I wasn't
planning on sealing anything except around the wheel wells. That's one
reason I was wondering about slipping the belly pan between the axle mount
and the frame rather than notching around it.
> Like the original installation you want the fiberglass to be held up
against the underneath of the wood floor.
Do you mean putting 2 inches of insulation in the 3 or 3 1/2 inch space
leaving an inch or so of space between the insulation and the belly pan? I
hadn't thought of that.
dd
> Dan,
>
> Here is my input, for what its worth...
>
> 1) Notch the belly pan. You (or the next owner) may need to
> access the belly later on. If you don't notch it then you
> will probably have to cut it to open it up...ugly.
>
> 4) Except for near the wheels, you do not want to make the
> belly pan water tight. No matter what you do, moisture will
> get in there. What you want is for that moisture to get back
> out. That requires air circulation. As far as I am aware no
> one has come up with with a better insulation for this
> application than fiberglass tho I did hear about someone who
> was thinking of using foam board, but I seem to remember that
> it did not work out. Whatever you do, you do not want to fill
> the area with insulation (due to moisture).
> Like the original installation you want the filberglass to be
> held up against the underneath of the wood floor. It has been
> my experience that water dripping out from the belly pan is
> not from water splashing up, but from plumbing leaks and
> seams or rivits up above that need some caulk.
>
> Scott
> 1960 Overlander