Dan,
Here is my input, for what its worth...
1) Notch the belly pan. You (or the next owner) may need to access the belly
later on. If you don't notch it then you will probably have to cut it to
open it up...ugly.
4) Except for near the wheels, you do not want to make the belly pan water
tight. No matter what you do, moisture will get in there. What you want is
for that moisture to get back out. That requires air circulation. As far as
I am aware no one has come up with with a better insulation for this
application than fiberglass tho I did hear about someone who was thinking of
using foam board, but I seem to remember that it did not work out. Whatever
you do, you do not want to fill the area with insulation (due to moisture).
Like the original installation you want the filberglass to be held up
against the underneath of the wood floor. It has been my experience that
water dripping out from the belly pan is not from water splashing up, but
from plumbing leaks and seams or rivits up above that need some caulk.
Scott
1960 Overlander
> I'm on again in my on and off again '67 Caravel project. Shell is off,
> frame sandblasted and repainted, new axle installed, floor is on, new
> aluminum is cut for the belly pan and I'm working on the wiring. I have
> few
> questions before going any further.
>
> 1. The new axle is a bit different in that the old one attached via
> vertical plates with the bolts horizontal. The new one, apparently to
> work
> for several different applications, has an angle mounting bracket that
> sits
> against the frame so it can be mounted with the bolts either horizontal or
> vertical. The question is this: Does anyone see any reason that I can't
> slip the belly pan between the angle and the frame rather than notching
> around it?
>
> 2. Does anyone see any reason that I can't route the charge line above
> the
> floor so I can put the breaker in an accessible place?
>
> 3. Why is the original wire between the brakes so heavy? The wires
> coming
> from the brakes can't be more than 14 gauge and the hot line seems to be
> 12
> gauge. The original wire connecting the brakes (ground side) must be at
> least 8 gauge. Is there any reason I can't replace that with, say 12
> gauge?
>
> 4. I started cutting insulation to fit this afternoon and started
> wondering
> if there was something better than fiberglass. It seems to me that no
> matter how tight I make the belly pan there will be places where moisture
> gets in, say around the wheel wells or near the front where the aluminum
> is
> cut to fit around the frame.
>
> dan downing
>