Bud,
I truly do not know about Amsoil. Sorry. Others on the list have spoken of
it and I believe I have always heard good things.
Which V6 engine does your 1997 have? I believe you can depend upon two
things. The previous owner must have taken good care of the engine which is
fluid maintenance and deliberate regular oil and filter changes. I know the
Mobil 1 to be very satisfactory to many, many people with a lot of history.
I still insist the main reason a engine does so well, is oil changes at a
frequency as close to 3K miles as practical. All of us have exceeded that
from time to time. That's ok. Things happen. But we try.
Every oil has to have at least CJ=Diesel=compression ignition, or all the
rest which is SJ=Spark=Spark Ignition. Castrol makes both. I agree with Dr.
J. and the others: if you can find an oil with both ratings, I would
STRONGLY lean to that oil. Castrol is a very good oil. I generally can't
afford it, but sometimes I catch a great sale and stock up on it.
I won't use teflon's or synthetics. Yes, I know there are many mixes and
they are excellent. The teflon's, and the teflon additives at first work,
give great results, and then break away from the oil and friction surfaces,
collect separately on the cold surfaces, collect like old coffee grounds in
appearance, and become abrasive and horribly destructive. The same thing
happens to poor oil and old oil failure to change. It hangs and collects on
the "ceiling" surfaces like the undersides of the intake manifold and
cylinder walls. There, the oil can burn to a crisp on the hot exhaust
casting passages, then fall down with the drips to be grinding all the
bearing surfaces with and abrasive mix similar to a sand baby powder. Like
tea in a bag, it just cannot be filtered completely.
Heavy paraffin oil are actually good lubricants, but it is the paraffin that
collect and burn to black crispy critters. That is why so much effort is
made to refine a good paraffin free oil. Of course they want to market the
paraffin separately as well.
I truly believe many oils are very good, that the recommended oil as listed
in the book must be used, that the 5W15 and others that will be listed for
your vehicle are absolutely good, that you should never intermix different
brands, but can safely try different brands with each oil change, and that
it is reasonable as a engine wears, to slightly increase the weight of the
oil from say a 5W15, to a 5W20, or 10W20/30 as listed in your book. Use NO
OIL ADDITIVES!=BAD!
Your engine runs good, and does not smoke. At 130,000 miles, I would keep
the oil change frequency as close to 3K miles as is financially and
physically convenient for you, but never exceed 5K miles. I would use the
next heavier grade level of oil that is recommended in your book, like for
summer driving. I would regularly check the coolant level at least monthly
intervals to avoid surprises from old water pump seal, heater core, and
hoses. Keep the radiator completely full and airless. Keep the reservoir as
full as it will stand, to save the plastic from the engine compartment heat
degradation.
If you do not know if the coolant is a 50/50 mix of green antifreeze (the
cheapest) and distilled water, then drain it, change it, and be sure to
refilled-recheck it after it has sat overnight cold. The distilled water
will take up all corrosion, rust, and minerals. It will totally clean an old
engine and cause a green tint that looks like anodizing on all the aluminum
surfaces. Old engines need a drain and change annually to get clean. A flush
is not necessary, nor is any worry about "did I get it all out". AIR IN ANY
RADIATOR IS THE ENEMY! Air allows a lot of problems, but especially rust and
corrosion. Keep the radiator totally full. Never disturb a warm radiator as
it is in the process of recovery. Only check it overnight cold. The radiator
additives are a good thing to use.
Warranty on all new water pumps require distilled water only! Manufactures
however do not use what they themselves require, when you get your new
vehicle. It saves them $1.00 per vehicle. That is easily cost figured big
savings for the total number of vehicles manufactured for any given year. If
you buy a new vehicle, you really should get them to change the coolant to
the 50/50 distilled water mix at your expense, or do it yourself. Nobody
does, nor will they.
Propane is extremely clean burning, will burn to bright shiny clean a
converted engines dirty pistons, and the oil will stay golden for a year in
a generator or forklift engine. If you can afford it, convert your generator
to dual fuel for at least double the life, and 1/4 the maintenance. It will
always start and run better on propane as well.
-Eddie- Houston, Texas