Royce,
The 4.0 Wrangler engine is extremely good, long lasting, and durable. I know
of several with over 200 K miles. I did not like Jeep's response to the
Delco plastic distributor rotor base problem on the older models, but was
able to make a better-than factory repair and for a fraction of the cost. Be
sure to oil the door hinges regularly and liberally, especially the drivers
door hinges which will rust seize, not be noticeable, until the frozen or
stiff hinge causes the metal pillar to tear off at the top. Jeep denies they
ever had a problem, which is total BS. Just oil soak the hinges twice a year
with any cheap 30w oil. I know it's messy, just wipe up the mess for a day
or two.
The Wrangler likes trailers, has the power, durability, brakes, and
suspension to serve very well.
This engine is extremely sensitive to coolant maintenance and cannot stand
any part of overheating. Monitor the radiator for a totally airless,
completely full status. Check older engines not less than monthly when
overnite cold. If adding more than one pint of distilled water 50/50
antifreeze mix weekly, start watching for tiny holes/cracks in all coolant
system hoses, any drippage from the water pump, and the heater core. Catch
the leak before it avalanches by simply checking the coolant in a systematic
and regular method. The engine has a very long cylinder head and like most,
cannot stand any overheat.
This engine like most good engines cannot stand any "knock" or "clatter". It
will burn the tops off the #2 and #3 pistons on the passenger side down to
the top ring. This knock will happen when you inadvertantly buy inferior or
bad gas, or overheat the engine due to low coolant. If you need to, just go
to the plus or even supreme fuel to stop the pre-ignition knock. Accellerate
so as to avoid the engine knock when in a full bad load tank situation until
you can add enough supreme fuel to stop the knock. NEVER EVER USE fuel
addititives by ANYBODY!
The FL1-A is an excellent filter as is the AC Delco equivalent. Either use
AC Delco or Motorcraft spark plugs in this fine engine. Never use Champion.
I don't know and have always been mystified by the horrible access to
Baldwin Filters. I suppose it is the cost, as most consumers go for the
cheapy high margin filters offered by the typical parts supply stores.
Inventory of a high cost, low sale product probably does not interest the
typical Autozone high turn over objective. Look at how sparse the AC,
Motocraft, and other quality item selection is, when any are on the shelf.
Beware of that loaded shelf, of the cheapy products.
I personally would not use any Valvoline engine oil. I have absolute totally
bad history results, especially with their top of the line racing product.
The typical history is incredible oil consumption and during a six-month
test on a proven engine with less than 20k miles in mild service, had
extreme blackening of the oil, goo and gunk build up, massive oil
consumption, and immediate cessation of all of this when the oil was
discontinued. A premature engine failure teardown on a different engine
revealed extreme and abnormal wear as if poorly oiled with a "Quick-Shop"
reclaimed oil, and excessive paraffin black goo built up on everything. That
engine oil was regularly changed at good intervals recorded, and used Fram
filters. The engine was a 350 Chevy, a proven reliable engine comparable to
the Ford and Chrysler proven line of engines. I believe the product to be a
total marketing hype, and maybe useful in my oil can, but not in my lawn
mower.
I use the Valvoline ATF/Dexron when it is the cheapest, and can find no
differences in this product amidst the others. I use mass quantities of
transmission type fluids, since equipment reservoirs can start at 30 quart
capacities. I buy whatever is cheapest for the ATF products.
Interestingly, the old Amallie Oil product has been totally re-invented,
removing the notorious high paraffin that rendered this incredibly good
lubricant inferior and useless. I would have never dreamed I would again use
Amallie, but it is a very good oil now.
Quaker State paid almost 4k for a ruined engine by their oil and the unused
portion of stock which they determined had more than 40% overage error in
the detergent mix of the lot distributed. Admittedly, that engine
destruction was instantaneous within the first ten miles. I have never again
been able to trust what was always such a good and long proven product line.
Manufacture oils have been fault-free to my knowledge, and totally protect
warranty. Ford, GM, Chrysler, Toyota, BMW, and others have very good oils in
their own packaging. Not in the oil business, their specs are very high,
adhered to, and some can be bought at Wal-Mart for a great savings. BMW of
course requires the use of their own oil which is "free" by the dealer
albeit is part of the cost of this very expensive car. Forget what the
manual in the glove box says. This one goes back to the dealer for the oil
change. Porsche uses Castrol, and I admit I do use it, but only in my 928S.
The BMW glove box manual requires the Castrol which is confusing since the
dealer does not use it.
Everyone has their opinion of what is the "best", or "good" oil they might
swear by. Listen to their opinions, but especially the frequency of the oil
change. The frequency is what is most important. I personally know that
Pennzoil is good, Mobil, O'Reilly house brand, Texaco's Havolin, and many
other. The only bad one I know of that I would walk before using is
Valvoline, and of course any of the re-refined or re-constituted oils
(engine death) you could find at the local convenience store.
Did you know the primary cooling of an engine is not the water/coolant? It
is the engine oil! Did you know 99.9% of all engine failures (proven good
engines) are due to failure to regularly check the engine radiator coolant?
No gauge, lamp, or sensor can reveal that little leak that will happen one
day. When an engine overheats so much to quit running, or noticeably run
poorly, the engine is ruined in almost every financially viable case. The
other .1% is failure to change oil or maintain oil level.
There are people who will disagree with all or part of the above.
-Eddie- Houston, Texas
> Great info and right on track for the modern engines. Thanks for the
> detailed responce. I have a question and would like your thoughts. BTW, I
> currently use a Ford FL1A filter on my Jeep Wrangler 4.0L because it was
> recommended as the best available. I will look for the Baldwin filters as
> an alternative. What do you think of Valvoline oil in the recommended
> weight for use in the Wrangler.