> OK, I've got a few questions:
>
> How do you get batt insulation to stay put before the inner skins
> go in?
> Doesn't it just slide/fall down?
It wedges in-between the vertical and horizontal ribs. You can use a
little spray glue to keep it around the roof curves. Make sure
there's adequate ventilation, or else you'll be too happy during the
installation.
>
> What's the best detail to use at the threshhold to try to keep the
> edge of
> the subfloor from getting wet?
A thin aluminum angle profile, with some sealer towards the bottom.
>
> The black tank in my '59 Overlander sits on the floor in the back
> corner,
> with a box built over and around it, toilet on top. The tank is
> only ~5"
> deep, top of box was ~6" off floor. If I made the tank ~2" taller,
> it'd
> give me 40% more capacity. Do you think having the toilet 8" off
> the floor
> would be awkward? Or that this would be too much weight in that
> corner? Or
> that it would create some other problem?
A standard RV toilet is about 17in high. A low profile model is about
4in shorter, at 13in. seat heigth.
If you add 8in, then you're at 21in seat height. I would make a
mockup with an upside down bucket and see if that's too high.
http://www.sealandtechnology.com/productpages.asp?pid=13
You do not want to travel with a full black tank, ever, so the extra
weight would not bother me. Once filled, a short tow to the dump
station is not likely to hurt anything.
>
> Anyone have a good source for 12v outlets shallow enough to fit in an
> Airstream's walls?
I have one (1) from my 1963 Overlander. e-mail me and I will send it
to you. The new one's power terminal will touch the outer shell from
the inside, requiring a frame to be created that spaces them out a bit.
Uwe Salwender
Orange CA