Hi Bob,
As an owner of a '74 Argosy 22, tandem axle with rear door entry, I have
some experiences that you might consider.
First, the skin is thinner than an Airstream and the floor looks to be
planned for an under floor potable water tank as a huge area is unbraced.
Second, the Carlisle 700-15 ( the original tire size will not fit due to
increases in diameter (from 28 to 29 inches) over the years. Goodyear
Marathon type are 28 inches and fit properly.
The commode cannot be replaced with a direct fit as the channel for the
plumbing needs be cut out and the shower lines routed differently. I made
do with modification of the original when I replaced all the plumbing with
PEX.
I find the unit entirely adequate for ME and one dog. A second person gets
a little tight!
I have the Hensley on the A frame and the trailer tows like a dream at usual
highway speeds.
Torsion axles are in the Henchen degradable rubber period, so you must
verify the angle of the arms to be down rather than up. Mine are up and the
cost is too much to replace them even with Dexter units. It can be done
with Dexter axles for about $400 an axle. I have the Dexter axle for my '69
Safari waiting for help to get it installed. Henchen axles will run about
$900 each plus shipping and installation! :( The reason I stopped
restoration on the Argosy.
The galvanized end caps are always a pain as the galvanized metal flakes off
and needs constant coating with something like rustoleum.
My unit has pink panther insulation under the floor and the water and
rodents had most of it on top of the belly rather than where it belonged.
Held massive amounts of water against the outriggers and cross braces with
obvious damage.
Replacing the umbilical is a pain to be sure and likely a need on a 28 year
vintage unit. Best to cut an access hatch in the belly to get this done.
I had to replace all window and hatch gaskets, reseal all windows, and all
panel seams.
I also replaced the water heater, charger, water pump, and repaired the
Thetford gate valves on the holding tanks.
Watch the AC to be sure that the installer followed the support
recommendations. My owner do-it-himself drilled through the 110 volt wire
with zip screws and shorted the ground and neutral such that my GFI
prevented AC hookup. The owner hooked a #2 wire with a huge clip to attach
to a grounding post to eliminate shocking entry without a GFI. You an tell
if the unit does not have adequate support as both the interior rivets and
exterior rivets will show vibration damage and many will be sheared off
(usually a black ring around the rivet head).
The rear bath comes out with relative ease for repair as compared to my '69
Safari. The above floor blackwater holding tank is a plus for the Argosy.
The bath floor is not pinched between the monocoque and the cross brace as
with other units I've worked on. The floor sits on top of a cross brace and
this makes both the shell/frame connection stronger and the replacement of
the floor simple.
BTW, the water heater location is the pits for efficiency. Takes a long
time to get hot water to the faucets/bath from the streetside installation.
Maybe one of the new instant type water heaters mounted in a bath closet
would be a better arrangement.
Yet to be done is the bath floor area that holds the black water holding
tank and the floor under the battery. The outrigger for the step is rusted
out and needs repair.
I think it's an OK unit, but maybe not a restorable vintage trailer. Just
something to get by until something better comes along - an Avion or
Airstream! :) Mine was rough and cost $850 and I think I paid too much.
Hope this helps,
Regards, '74 Argosy, Joy