VAC E-mail List Archive

The Vintage Airstream E-mail List

Archive Files


[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index]

[VACList] Re: VACList Digest V3 #232



[ Note: This mail was converted from HTML to text by majordomo.
        Formatting might be poor. ]

  The electric brakes work by having a magnet attatched to an arm that
  looks like a safety brake arm in a normal drum brake setup. The
  magnet grabs the inside flat part of the flat part of the drum so
  that when the drum turns it pulls the arm which pushes the shoes
  apart to grab the curved part of the drum. Thus you have to check the
  magnetic friction pad in addition to the normal shoes. As far as
  adjusting, they don't seem to have an automatic adjuster like a car,
  but the star arrangement that is accessed through a slot in the
  bottom is the same. The interesting thing about the design is that
  when you apply the brakes, the wheel has to turn some to apply the
  stopping power, so it appears to not be working untill you get used
  to them. To test, jack up one side of the trailer, pull the emergency
  release cable and attempt to turn your wheels. You should hear the
  magnets grab the outside of the hubs, and you should be able to turn
  them freely for just a bit untill the arm moves and tightens up your
  shoes. If not then I would start with the emergency battery, then the
  switch, check voltage at the magnets, then the shoes. I would also do
  the same test with the tow vehicle. I used a stick to hold the brake
  pedal down instead of anoying my wife. It has been said, and I agree,
  that it is cheaper and definatly less aggrivating to buy the whole
  loaded backing plate than attempting to replace individual parts. A
  loaded backing plate is around $80 and has evey thing on it new.

  On mine I need to pull the hub to get the brake drum off.

  Hope this helps

   

  Lee from Dallas