Re: [VACList] RE:1968 26ft overlander vs 1993 29ft classic

["Tuna" <rctowns@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

John - you might consider joining Hunter's 'Airstream List' over at
www.yahoogroups.com ...you've probably encountered many of their posts since
they share the Patterson archives.

I've towed all sorts of things with all sorts of tow-vehicles for some 25+
years, and absolutely recommend using load distribution hitches whenever
possible (e.g., rental trailers a la 'u-haul' use a surge-brake mechanism
which precludes using the trunnion bars).

I've been using a 2002 Dodge Ram 1500 for the past six months or so, and
have found that the truck's suspension actually 'rides' much better with a
few hundred pounds in the truck bed or tongue-weight on the hitch, but it is
important to consider the dynamics of trailer towing... just because it tows
level on the flat at highway speeds doesn't mean that hitting a bump, or
sudden braking, won't cause the trailer to dive or squat, and thus change
your Silverado's ability to safely maneuver. Simple load distribution bars
(EZ-lift), Reese Dual-cam hitches, the Pull-Rite, and the extra-pricey
Hensley 'Arrow' all have their supporters/detractors, but i think that
they'd all agree that some sort of load-distribution is necessary for safe
handling in those unexpected situations.

There is some controversy over the use of friction-bar type sway control -
they don't really 'control sway', but they do provide some resistance to
sway so that it doesn't get started, under normal conditions - but it's a
bit of a PITA to get out and loosen it up when i need to back up, for
example. Also, your load-distribution hitch will provide some similar
resistance to sway-initiation. Still, i use one when i can. I can't right
now because i bent the sway bar backing my little 500 lb. luggage trailer.

Tuna
Reno, NV