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Hi Rob,
I have a '74 Argosy 22 with the rear door entry and
rear bath.
There are several inspection points for floor rot
that you should look at.
First, open the bumper hatch and look for rotted
wood debris. Next, reach your fingers just ahead of the inverted "U"
channel and touch the floor. It should be firm! Especially the areas
around the holding tank where it drops through the floor. With extensive
rot in this area that can stretch from the rear door around to the battery
compartment, I doubt that you'll feel bumper movement. The frame rail and
the skid rail make this a pretty rigid assembly in a 22 footer. The clinch
rivets between the cross frame (the inverted "U" channel) and the aluminum "U"
channel of the monocoque will loosen over time when the wood is rotted.
More likely, by the time all the rotted wood falls out, the fasteners will have
completely disintegrated. I'm saving this restoration project for this
winter! :(
Second, on each side of the door; however, the
hinge side is particularly vulnerable. I found that the door frame had
separated from the coach body across the entire top of the entry. The
awning directs the water over the hinge and the seam. I may add a fillet
to direct the water beyond the entry door.
The areas under the rearward end of the front
window curve are also suspect. This is an area where Airstream joined the
front end to the main body. The alignment is poor and directs water under
the trim strip and onto the floor with the usual result. I'm ordering some
Penetrating Epoxy from Fiber Glass Coatings (800) 272 7890. I used this
product on my Safari and like how it works - 2 part mix. The product costs
about $20 and the freight is $10 or so in 2001. The structure of the floor
must still be intact to hold the epoxy. It's OK to add sawdust to bring
the floor to grade if necessary. I drilled a zillion holes where practical
to be sure the epoxy made full penetration. Nope, I didn't drill the holes
all the way through the floor.
The water heater area is always
suspect!
Finally, the wheel well (inner and outer) are
suspect. I found mine cracked and separated. Means that the water
from the road reaches the floor. I just assume that the floor is damaged
when I see this condition. With my Safari, I fabricated new inner wheel
well covers from sheet metal to replace the trashy plastic. The original
is thin and brittle! :( However, to repair the floor around the wheel
well, you must remove the well covers. Keep in mind that the wheel well
area is nearly 5 feet long and there isn't a floor to hold the shell in
alignment. When the two plastic wheel wells break, the area becomes a
floppy mess and directs water inside the trailer!
I'm in process of caulking all the seams. I
found a major leak under the front Argosy plaque. I thought it was the
window seam, but went ahead and checked. What a surprise.
The clearance lights were similar and I replaced
the felt with butyl tape after I coated the rusted areas with rustoleum.
Used Parr bond to assure no more leaks.
I've noticed that most the steel to aluminum seams
are in very poor shape and need caulk. The light rust along the seam is
obvious.
Both the Safari and the Argosy had serious water
entry through the stove hood assembly. The extended flow of water
compromises the floor around the wheel well, compromises the rivets holding the
inner aluminum shell, and damages the support counter around the stove.
Any rust on the top of the stove indicates that there's a serious problem.
Granted that both the Airstream and the Argosy were
abused by neglect for many years, my experience might be somewhat
unusual.
BTW, $6000 means that none of the conditions I've
mentioned exist, it has the OPD tanks, refrigerator, stove, water tank, air
conditioner, updated charger, upgraded faucets, and new cushion fabric and
drapes. It should also include jacks, new battery, and no leaks in the
holding tanks. The water pump should be upgraded and preferably include an
accumulator tank. A water heater bypass is also a good idea.
Especially when the thing develops a leak while you are
traveling.
What I'm getting at, is that for $6K, the interior
and exterior should be in immaculate condition! I feel I overpaid for the
'74 at $900 and knowing that everything would have to be restored. Well,
the AC, refrigerator, and the furnace work, maybe. The stove is
questionable. I may have several thousand invested by the time I get to
the point where I feel that it's worth painting the exterior.
Most all of the learned restoration techniques came
from contributors to the list! :)
Hope this helps.
'74 Argosy, Joy
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