[VAC] Re: Replacing Shocks / Balancing Wheels

[Jim Dunmyer <jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

FWIW:
  I ALWAYS grease lug bolts/studs before reassembly, including the 
beveled face where the bolt/nut contacts the wheel. It's impossible to 
get a correct torque setting on rusted fasteners, and it can be a bugger 
to get 'em loose the next time.

That stuff doesn't usually have to be anywhere near wring-em-off tight, 
either. We've all had experiences with trying to remove a wheel that was 
installed at the tire shop by some clown with an impact wrench. If you 
don't have the experience and feel for what is "tight enough", you 
should use a torque wrench.

Threads that are lightly damaged can be easily fixed with a hammer. 
Install the nut, run it down to the damaged spot, then tap it with a 
small (8 oz) hammer, all the way around. You can even use a socket and 
tap on it with a brass hammer, as long as the socket is contacting ONLY 
the nut. The idea is to use the nut to kinda peen the threads back into 
shape. As you tap on it, you'll find the nut spinning freely on the 
formerly-damaged threads, and you can run it down a bit further to work 
on another area.

A thread file, available from any machine shop supplier, works well on 
some threads, unless the stud is too hard. Another handy tool is a set 
of thread chasers. These are like a threading die, but aren't meant to 
cut new threads, only to clean up old ones. The outside is hexagonal, 
and the same size as the corresponding nut, so they can be spun onto a 
damaged stud with a socket wrench. They're available in both NC and NF 
configurations.

                             <<Jim>>