[VAC] End cap, furnace, monitors, mini blinds

[Jim Bounds <jimbounds@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Sorry to post like this but I'm having trouble following threads using this 
format.  I'll figure out a way soon, but here are thoughts on several posts.

END CAPS:  I was warned that the fiberglass front & rear caps on the 
Airstreams cracked from the stresses of being the weakest member, when 
pressures are put on the body, something has to get and the end caps are 
weaker than the aluminum rivets.

I have the same trouble with the front & rear ABS plastic end caps in the 
GMC motorhomes I work on.  The cap is totally visible so any repair needs 
to be both structurally as well as cosmetically done.  There is very little 
you can do, especially in your garage, to match the texture and finish of 
the areas around the crack.  Any cosmetic repair would surely reopen the 
first good bump you hit.  You can cover over the crack and physically hold 
the 2 edges together but it will probably look like something off of 
Franensteins head!

When faced with such a problem, I cover up the physical repair with the 
cosmetic repair.  I patch over or plastic weld the crack to a state of 
reliable strength, then cover the entire panel with some material 
(headliner material, vinyl, stretchable pile carpet, felt, cloth, or some 
other covering.  While this may not be an original look, it will solve both 
problems.  My Tradewind does not have any cracks up there (knock on 
aluminum) but if it did I think I would cover the cap with a short pile 
stretchable carpet.

FURNACE:  The biggest trouble I have in replacing a furnace IS getting past 
the cutting of new holes.  The inlet & exh. holes must be straight so you 
cannot bend the pipes to fit the original holes.  Very few new furnaces 
have holes that line up with old holes.  I am not sure about the Airstream 
specific units but in general you will find this to be true.  Hope you find 
something that will work but do not mod the pipes, good luck.

MONITOR SYSTEMS:  I have found that the resistance levels the older "well 
nut" style monitor circuits use is effected by minerals in the water too 
much.  As another person pointed out, at best they are a unreliable 
system.  Do not expect well nut systems to be dead accurate.  There are too 
many factors that influence their operation.  If you can tell when the 
level in the tanks are getting high, empty them.  Don't worry if they are 
1/2 or 3/4 full, get rid of that stuff!

I use a well nut monitor system that many of the big manufacturers use and 
in general I think it works well.  I'm not going to bet my pink slip on it 
though!  I don't know where these original systems operate but it needs to 
be somewhere in the meg ohm range to be more reliable.  As I get more 
familiar with the systems, there may be something that could be substituted 
to work better.

MINI BLINDS:  If you use a vertical valence to frame the sides of the 
blinds, you can get privacy and style.  I upholster the valences on the 
inside and out (outside for style, inside to stop rattling) Bali makes a 
1/2 "micro mini" blind that is very tasteful as well as small enough to not 
intrude into the living area.  Check with a local bland shop for color samples.

You cannot, of course, use mini blinds on the curved windows but you may be 
able to use vertical style blinds in their place.  I haven't done it yet 
but plan to look into it when I get to that point.  I'll let you know how 
it goes.

I'm going to pick up a 75 Airstream motorhome to restore along with the 63 
Tradewind trailer I have now.  I've gotten pretty excited about working 
with these units, I'll let you know how things go.

Jim Bounds