[VAC] Re: how to buy my first Airstream- Help!

[KEVIN D ALLEN <overlander64@xxxxxxxxx>]

After having towed my '64 Overlander with three tow vehicles, I would
definitely want to be sure that my truck was a 3/4 ton with a large V8.  My
first truck was a 1/2 ton with 5.7 liter V8 and complete towing package
rated at 6,800 pounds.  The truck chasis handled the trailer acceptably, but
the engine simply did not have enough power for safe travel in the Rocky
Mountains.  My current tow vehicle is a 3/4 ton with 7.4 liter V8 and heavy
duty trailering package - - doesn't even notice trailer and gets better solo
and towing mileage than the 1/2 ton - - rides better as well since it was
special ordered without the off road package that it seems all dealers in
this area insist on ordering for stocked 4-wheel drive trucks.
>
> While I like the looks of Airstreams from the 1960s, I thought that it
> would be harder to find parts for older Airstreams when I try to repair
and
> refurbish it.  I may be wrong about that...??

Repairs aren't going to be that much different between a trailer of the '60s
as compared to the mid '70s.  The unique Airstream components may prove
difficult to find, but most of the wear prone features are comparable to
their modern equivalents.  Actually, there are probably more unique
Airstream components on a mid '70s trailer compared to a mid '60s.  I have
found very little on my '64 that hasn't been fairly easily repaired, but I
do have an excellent Airstream dealer nearby who gladly works on vintage
coaches.  I would encourage you to look at a variety of '60s as well as '70s
coaches to get a feel for the aesthetics of each.  That is what I did when I
purchased my Overlander.  Found the '64 much more aesthetically pleasing
especially since I prefer the natural wood cabinetry (fine grade plywood
veneers) used in the '60s compared to the tambour of the '70s -  - but this
is strictly a personal preference - - vive le difrerence!.  The only
components that I have had difficulty replacing in my Overlander were the
wall sconces - - finally went with similar modern units which look period,
but obviously are not original.  All of the basic utilities have been
upgraded including refrigerator, water pump, water tank, hot water heater,
furnace, and air conditioner - - all are modern manufacture, but due to the
assistance of a local craftsman the new fixtures blend right into the
interior.

If your primary concern that is preventing you from considering a 60s coach
is parts availability, don't let this immediately deter you.  So long as the
coach is in good condition to begin with, there isn't a tremendous problem
with finding most wear parts.  My suggestion would be to closely look at
severl models from 60s, 70s, and possibly even the 80s to determine which is
most aesthetically pleasing to you.  I now realize that I probably never
would have been happy if I had settled for my second choice 1978 coach
rather than my '64 - - as the aesthetics of the '64 just shouted You are
Home when I first walked into the rig.
>
> Anyway, I understand that some longer Airstreams tend to droop in the rear
> if a fix was not installed.  Some posts to this mailing list have a tag
> line that says something like "center bathroom" .  Is that a option I
> should look for in a 27 to 29 foot trailer? How do I find out if a rear
> bath has the "fix" installed to stop rear droop?  Does anyone have a
> picture of this fix?

Due to age, use, and road salt exposure virtually any vintage Airstream
"can" suffer frame problems including but not limited to droop.  A well
maintained '60s coach may be a little less likely to suffer from droop, as
the primary problem began in the '70s.  I looked at both rear and
side/center bath models and quickly ruled out side/center baths as they
proved much too claustraphobic for me - - I really like the openness of the
rear bath in my Overlander.  I am sure that someone on the list can fill you
in on identifying frame droop - - I know it has something to do with ripples
in the skin in the vicinity of the wheel openings - - and a steel plate of
some type is visible on the frame in the wheel well area if the repair has
been made.  A second potential problem is rear frame separation where the
rear bumper moves independently of the rear of the coach when firm, heavy
pressure is applied to the rear bumper - - this was a problem that was
beginning to develop on my coach which was stopped by removing the
aftermarket rear mounted spare tire carrier and repaired by reinforcing the
frame and some of the rear outriggers.
>
> I have a good eye, and I have been involved with restoration of old cars,
> but I admit to not knowing a thing about Airstreams. I am not sure what to
> look for. Help!
>
> Do I look for:
>
> Broken frame?  How
>
> wood rot?  How?

Check the perimeter along the inside wall.  Where you can walk - - walk
noticing whether there  is a noticeable difference in the amount of bounce
in the floor - - not always a definitive indicator but a poorly disguised
serious problem can usually be uncoveed in this manner - - found a huge hole
in front of the front sofa on one unit with this method.  Bouncing a rubber
mallet or "poking" with a metal awl along the perimeter may also help to
identify rot.  areas immediately under the windows - - especially front and
rear seem to be rather usual locations for problems - - the one stop
compartment had some significant rot in my rig which was identified with an
awl - - a synthetic consolidant and overlay product was used by my local
dealer to repair this problem.  Examine the area near both the water heater
and fresh water tank as both of these units can be the source of rot if they
have been permitted to leak at any point in time - - both areas were
accesible from the interior through access hatches on my '64.
>
> Break or wheel types?
>
By the '70s, electric brakes would have been standard, but on high level
coaches HyraVac Disc brakes were available or standard.  In their day, these
brakes were state of the art and among the most effective on the market.
Today, the problem is that they are basically orphan hardware that has no
widespread repair/replacement part support - - they can be found but not as
readily as those for the moe typical Kelsy Hayes electrics.  The HydraVacs
also require a connection to the vacuum system of the tow vehicle, and this
could cause problems with the modern computer controlled engines found in
many if not most modern vehicles.  A number of listees have written of
converting their rigs from HydraVac discs to standard drum type
electrics - - cost can be quite a factor especially if done by a dealer.

According to the literature that came with my '64, four wheel electric
brakes were optional - - only the front axle had standard electric trailer
brakes.  At some point in time, my '64 had trailer brakes added to the rear
axle.  In addition, many of the early/mid 60s coaches may still have their
original equipment split rim wheels which are a near must replacement
intoday's market - - not a terribly expensive proposition - - steel wheels
are generally readily available from a knowledgeable tire store - - I
purchase mine from the local Good Year dealer with my new tires - - no
question about incompatability of wheels/tires/cpacities with this method as
the dealer did all of the measuring and ordering taking total responsibility
for insuring proper fit - - that was five years ago and I am still
completely satisfied.

> Center bath better?

In large part, this is a personal preference issue IMHO.  By carefully
guarding against traveling with full holding tank(s) and avoiding mounting
anything to the rear bumper, the problem with tail droop can be avoided.
The rear bathroom is going to provide more generous accommodations with an
airy feel while the center/side bath relieves some of the concern about tail
sag, but at the sacrifice of the roominess of the rear bathroom.  The rear
bedroom would provide increased privacy and possibly a bit more strech out
room than the center bedroom
>
> Anything else?

As you have probably read in posts on several ocassions.  The cheapest
trailer may not be the most economical in the long run.  My '64 was several
hundred to a bit more than 1,000 higer than the other 12 rigs that I looked
at, but it was in exceptionally good condition needing little more than new
tires and a new water pump to be ready for use.  It gave me five years with
minimal repairs/restoration while I traveled to every International Rally
beginning with the 1998 International in Boise.  This year, I have splurged
on seveal professional restoration projects on the trailer to keep it in
fine, usable condition - - but my restoration is with an eye toward use
rather than total authenticity.
>
> I am in Portland Oregon.  If you have a Airstream for sale and are in my
> area (Oregon or Washington) drop me a line.
>
> Advice appreciated.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> jack

Good luck with your decision and hunt!

Kevin D. Allen
WBCCI/VAC #6359
1964 Overlander International/1999 GMC K2500 Suburban