[VAC] Re: Use Of Hydraulic-Electric Brake Controller in a Late Model Dodge Ram

["Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx>]

If the truck makers are happy with that controller even if it takes
bloodying their arm to get them to admit it, I'm all for it.

Trouble is I'm happy with the equally expensive Hayes-Lemmerz micro
controller that fits neatly between my F-150 steering wheel and the dash
so I can reach its button with my index finger with my right hand still
holding the steering wheel. And I've reached a compromise adjustment
where it does enough work for gentle stops. A poke of the finger gets
all the trailer braking I can stand when I need a really quick stop. So
I probably won't change. But I like the idea of the hydraulic
controller. Ten years ago or so I bought a Teconsa controller that made
that .02 cc claim, but I never hooked it up. I sold it to my dad who put
it in a Ford Ranger and used it manually without the hydraulic hook up.
Takes a bit more skill to use but gives complete control. I presume he
left it in the Ranger when he gave up driving and sold the Ranger. I
should ask him about it some time.

Especially with a diesel, 5 speeds aren't better than 6 but my previous
Ford with a Warner T-19 transmission with a 6.5:1 granny gear was great
for slow maneuvering and getting rolling on a steel slope. My old F-350
with a NP-435 that has a 7.5:1 granny gear is even better about that,
especially with its 5.13 rear axle. Trouble is, with a 15 gallon tank
and a 390 under the hood, it turns into gas stations automatically.
Neither truck had (has) an overdrive.

My gas engines work well over a wider rpm range than diesels and so a
wider set of ratios would suit me better. My current puller, a '98 F-150
with a 4.6L overhead cam engine comes to life the faster I run the
engine. Its HP was rated at 4600 rpm, though I don't think I've often
run it that fast. I put in 4.10 rear axle gears and its a jack rabbit
when not towing. Surprises lots of kids with what they thought were hot
cars.

That last time I looked for a hydraulic T was when I bought the F-350
and then a heavy camper, about ten years ago. I found a collection at a
RV shop located along US 61 in NE Missouri, not too far south of
Palmira. Finding it in metric would be a severe problem. Maybe a shop
that specializes in hydraulics. Do you have dimensions on the metric
fitting, like diameter and thread pitch? Is it sealed by being tapered
thread or is there a flare or is it inverted flare? or 37° JIC? I'm
talking truck stores that deal in parts for semi tractors, not pickups.
The fittings may be defined in a recent SAE handbook. Mine are a bit
old, but I think the local university library has recent issues. Can you
get Dodge to tell you a SAE specification?

How about the place that sold the controller? How do they expect to
connect them?

What about getting a replacement piece of brake line, cutting off the
ends and then flaring them (double flare in steel line) to fit a known T
and finding a union type fitting to fit it in between the existing line
and the master cylinder? Surely Dodge can supply that piece of brake
line. Then use standard fractional brake line fittings on the pipe. It
uses up more brake fluid than a T but so long as its constant volume its
no problem once the air is bled out of the system. I don't know about
modern trucks, but I had no problems at NAPA or other car parts places
getting universal replacement brake lines for my F-350 ('65) and most
any lengths. And adapters including Ts to fit the truck parts, like hose
ends and cylinders (which were from various eras, the front cylinders
took hoses for a '64, the master cylinder is for a '65, the rear
cylinders are larger than a '65 F-350 should have, probably has an axle
from a 2.5 ton truck. Its noticeably bigger than the standard 1 ton
axle).

Gerald J.