[VAC] Re: Removing rivets and rusty screws

["Mr. Joy H. Hansen" <joytbrew@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Removing the rest of the screw after  you grind off the head is unique for
each situation.  If I can get to the backside of the screw, I use vice grips
to move the screw until I can get the vice grip on the head.  If the panel
must come off first - e.g. a water heater shroud -
when the head is removed, the shroud is removed and then the screw body can
be accessed.  For a belly skin, it isn't essential that the new fastener use
the same hole.  It's nice for alignment, but not critical.  If you don't
like the old hole, a dab of Parrbond or Vulkem will do, thank you.  If it's
impractical to remove the body of the sheet metal screw from the backside of
the panel, I grind the body flush and forget it.

I read many posts where the recommendation is to use sheet metal screws for
the belly pan.  However, the sheet metal screws, unless stainless, corrode
quickly.  I think this is due to electrolysis/galvanic action that hastens
the deterioration.  Result is that I will only use sheet metal screws where
it's critical like securing aluminum to wood or the water heater shroud.  I
prefer SS; however, aluminum screws are available that might limit
corrosion.  Otherwise, I must paint the screws to keep them from corroding.

Sure is a lot to learn .  .  .

                                                     '69 Safari, Joy