[VAC] Re: Holding Tanks, floor replacement, etc.

["Mr. Joy H. Hansen" <joytbrew@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Holding Tanks - what plastic in '76?Hi Jim,

Your picture of your holding tanks was really interesting in that the gray
and black water tanks are mounted in the rear.  I don't know how you got the
detail in 39KB as I usually end up with a 2X4 inch frame by the time I get
the bytes reduced sufficient for inclusion in a post.  Can you give some
details?  I've a lot to learn!

I was gratified that A/S chose to run floor braces fore to aft in the
holding tank compartment.  Without knowing what I was doing, this is exactly
the means I used to support the floor replacement in my '69 Safari.  I now
realize that I should have been more aggressive in tearing out the old floor
than I was.  Splitting the replacement floor down the center and installing
it under the aluminum "U" channel and over the frame without damaging the
exterior skin was challenging for a neophyte restorer.

It appears that you chose not to remove the belly pan/banana curves.  I
found that it was essential to remove these to reinstall the bolts that hold
the upper body to the floor/frame.  You also chose to remove the entire
interior skin.  I opted to cut a 6 inch strip around the perimeter to gain
access to the aluminum "U" channel.  My hope is that there's not a true
structural aspect of the interior skin.  Mine was loosely fitted  and seldom
was attached to the ribs and in some areas not attached to the aluminum "U"
channel at the base? :(  Anyway, you might consider this approach for small
floor repairs

Not that you asked for suggestions, but I found that much of the floor rot
across the aft was caused by water seepage from the bumper plate that the
hatch door rests against.  I note that later models changed the orientation
of the hatch door so it rests on the bumper.  The problem is still the same.
Water runs under the trim strip and wicks into the floor every time it
rains.  Eventually, the constant seepage oxidizes the aluminum, rusts the
iron plate that attaches the body to the frame, and rots the floor.   The
trim strip must be removed to adequately caulk the seam.  The trim strip
must also be caulked to shed water out of the joint.   I also found that
water seepage through the window frame seal and the gasket to body failed to
seal and allowed  water to run down to the floor.  This water eventually
works its way into the holding tanks and rusts out the galvanized metal
bottoms of the housings.  I suspect that any water spilled on the bathroom
floor of my Safari could find its way into the holding tank housing.  Left
long enough and there's a total collapse as with my Safari.  Whew!

BTW, the frame members are not level!  I think A/S used adhesive to bridge
the gaps.  When you reinstall the floor, you'll have to accommodate the
non-level frame members.  Also, my floor was true 3/4 inch plywood.  The
best I could do for replacement was 23/32, so you might want to study the
original thickness vs.. the replacement.

Wow, for not requesting any information, I sure monopolized the soap box.
Hopefully you can use some of my experiences.

                                                       Joy