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Jason,
The tank in my '66 Safari and my daughter's '72 Overlander are
polyethylene. Some of the tanks, however, were constructed of ABS and
can be repaired. Cecil in Oklahoma says in a related post that his is ABS.
I have submitted my tank problem to the list for suggestions,
searched all over the US for an original replacement, and talked with at least
two dozen knowledgeable Airstream mechanics and experienced do-it-yourselfers
about the problem. I have discussed my tank problem with a local A/S
mechanic and went as far as driving from Lubbock to Dallas last week to
show my tank to the experts at North Dallas RV, a former A/S dealer and now A/S
factory authorized service center. The conclusion, in all cases, is that
successful repair of a damaged poly tank, like mine and apparently yours, is
possible but not likely. I was told that tank repair kits can sometimes be
used with success but when the top of the tank has a series of
major cracks radiating away from the toilet flange, as mine does, and the drain
valve stub is completely broken off, as mine is, the chance of getting a good
and lasting seal is remote. Skillful patching and sealing with
silicone caulk might work for awhile but stresses caused by adding and removing
weight to the toilet flange and travel flexing and the stresses of opening and
closing the dump valve, would seem, to me, to be a little more than could be
expected of silicone seal. Airstream has no
replacement tanks although you might possibly get lucky and find a sharp veteran
parts manager at an A/S dealer around the nation who has an old one stored in
the attic.
I located a local metal fabricator who agreed to build a new
tank of stainless steel for a reasonable price, under $200, but I wasn't certain
how well stainless would hold up over the long-term with the caustic contents of
the holding tank sloshing around. I figured A/S must have had some reason
for using ABS or poly tanks, maybe it was only price.
I purchased a new poly tank which has similar exterior
dimensions but does not include the notch at the center rear of the tank which
provides space within the tank cover housing and within the trailer's underbody
for the gate valve and the connection where the gray water plumbing line
attaches to the holding tank dump plumbing downstream of the gate valve.
My solution will be to reroute the gray water line, reduce it in size, drop it
through the right rear corner of the trunk area, extend it into the bumper hose
compartment, then route it to the center and attach it to the holding tank drain
line. All will be by backyard engineering.
I have not completed installation of my tank. I just
received the new tank Monday, picked up the new tank cover from a local sheet
metal bender yesterday, but am waiting for the return of my original toilet
which is being overhauled by a friend and A/S mechanic. I think the new
tank can be successfully installed and connected.
Inland RV is a source of many difficult or nearly impossible
to find A/S parts but I agree, $445 seemed excessive to me also. Charlie
Burke, an A/S dealer parts manager is subscriber to this list, Charlie might be
able to get one for you.
I'll be happy to continue to discuss your repair with you if I
can offer any additional information but, unfortunately, I don't have a perfect
solution either.
Harvey Barlow
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