[VAC] Repairing/Replacing Rotted Floor Sections

["Harvey Barlow" <harveybarlow@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Jim,

I have a rotted section of floor in the extreme right rear corner, inside
the trunk compartment, of my '66 Safari.   The rot extends to the outer edge
of the plywood flooring.  If it was in the middle of a section of floor, the
proper way to repair it, according to the A/S service manual, is to cut out
the bad section and enough solid floor around the rot to leave a solid
surface to attach the new floor.  The manual then advises cutting strips of
scrap and installing them under the edges overlapping the remaining floor
and the new section that will be installed.  Then insert the patch, cut to
fit the opening and secure using wood glue and screws.

Since my rot extends out under the edge of the body (probably most common)
it is not as easy to repair.  I am simply not willing to remove the entire
molded fiberglass tub, lavatory, and toilet surround and the cabinetry to do
a 100% correct repair.  And, without lifting the body, I'm not sure a 100%
repair is actually possible.

I read Marc Weimer's discussion of a practical floor repair in the "Winter
2000"  (actually Winter 1999-2000) issue of the VAC newsletter and asked
Marc and others for advice on the list.  Marc and several others suggested
spreading polyester resin over the rot and allowing it to fill the rotted
area and cure.  According to several who have used or seen the method,
polyester resin is cheap, readily available, and is an accepted and durable
repair method for older A/Ss suffering from floor rot in-lieu of removing
and replacing sections of floor.

On the VACList, Jim Smith who identified himself as an "old Florida
boat-builder" suggested that using penetrating epoxy resin would be even
better because it will be absorbed (wicked into) the rotted plywood flooring
and when cured, creates a new, very hard and durable composite material.  I
have never used either polyester resin or penetrating epoxy resin but I
figured who would know better than "an old Florida boat-builder"?  So, for a
cost of $20 instead of around $5 or $10 for the resin, I decided to follow
the boat builder's advice and ordered the penetrating epoxy resin from the
Florida supplier he suggested.  Unfortunately, my one-year-old shop building
is still unheated and Lubbock temperatures have been abnormally low for
several weeks.  Jim advised me not to apply the epoxy resin until
temperatures remain at least 60 degrees so I'm stuck, waiting for ambient
temperatures to rise.  I hope I don't have to wait until spring.

Good luck on your repairs.
Harvey