[VAC] Re: VAC Insulation, anyone?

[Randy Unter <vaclist@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

The interior was kept warm enough to keep water from freezing.  In fact, my model 6100
in the front set on high would blast us out, even with the door open. My rear
catalytic heater, a 3100,  is a foot from the bath area, the front heater a couple of
feet from the kitchen sink. For extended stays as in your case, you will probably need
to provide heat to the areas more exposed by using electric heat tape wrapped around
the exposed pipes, both water and drain. These are available at Camping World and
elsewhere. You could also use a small electric heater or blower to blow heat/warmed
air under the sinks, etc. If your Suburban furnace "heats" exposed pipes/tanks, you
could use the fan to circulate the warmed air created by the warmed interior by the
catalytics.  You could supplement this with an electric heater blowing into the
Suburban intake vent.   I also agree with other comments made to "plug the leaks"
which allow cold air to interior space. The catalytic heaters need some fresh air to
replace oxygen consumed by them, so a cracked window/ hatch serves this purpose. I
usually crack a central hatch or front window and rear window for cross flow
ventilation, keeping direct cold air away from wet areas.
If all else fails, you can drain everything and move inside until Spring.
Randy Unter
'66 Overlander
Denver