Re: [VAC] Trimming Olympic rivets/recessed centers

["Robert / Susan Harper" <rharper@xxxxxxxxxx>]

Thanks, Steve and Chris for feedback on my original post above.

I bought a better rivet gun with a tighter fitting nosepiece, but still had
the same problem. Then I noticed I had 2 bags of rivets, and 1 appears to be
something slightly different upon close inspection. The ones which are
popping off too deep have a rounded edge on the head, but the top is
slightly flat. The head is also slightly larger in diameter than the ones
which I will assume are the correct Olympic rivets, with a full domed head
(no flat). Otherwise, they looked identical. I have replaced most of the bad
ones, but have run out of the good ones.
Also, I've noticed that occasionally the rubber washer squeezes out beyond
the rivet a bit, and will then fall prey to the buffing procedure. Also, I
would think wiping down with lacquer thinner (more flammable but MUCH faster
than paint thinner or cleaners on oxidation residue) after buffing would
damage the rubber washer. What's the consensus on Olympic rivets with or
without the rubber washers?
On a related subject, Roy (Lashaway) mentioned wiping down with green
Windex, which contains vinegar instead of the ammonia found in blue Windex.
Isn't the acetic acid (vinegar) just as bad, and the reason we don't use
silicone on aluminum? I haven't found green Windex yet, so I have no
experience with it. Hey! - will adding yellow food color to regular blue
Windex change the ammonia to vinegar? (just kidding)

Re: the rivets. One bag came from Airmark, the other from an RV dealer in
Delaware I believe. I can't find the paperwork on the DE rivets, so I'm not
positive which are which, but I would guess that the good ones are
Airmark's.

Bob Harper
'62 Globetrotter in SC